Deck Lighting: A 2026 Guide

Highlights from this Article:

• Deck lighting serves two core purposes: safety (illuminating stairs, edges, and transitions) and ambiance (extending the usability of your outdoor space into the evening).
• There are various distinct light types for decks, each suited to different locations and effects. A well-designed lighting plan typically combines several of them.
• Low-voltage transformer systems are the most reliable and flexible option for most decks. Solar and battery systems have a place but come with trade-offs.
• Trex and TimberTech both offer deck and rail lights. Feeney DesignRail and Westbury Rail (Magena Star) each offer integrated lighting systems designed to coordinate with their railing products.
• If you wish, the Ann Arbor Decks design team will offer a complete lighting package as part of your deck proposal. It’s a separate line item, fully customizable, so you know exactly what you’re getting and what it costs.

Skip down to the lighting system comparison or the FAQs.

Well-designed deck lighting is really important in Michigan. Let’s face it: the Mitten State can get dark early, and we need more lighting to extend our enjoyment of our decks. It’s also easy to underestimate how much the right lighting can make a deck safer while adding to the ambience. Deck lighting does very practical work: it marks stair edges, defines the perimeter of the deck, and helps guests move safely in unfamiliar spaces after dark. Safety and aesthetics aren’t competing goals in deck lighting; they’re usually achieved by the same fixtures.

This post covers the available light types, how the major system configurations work, the most popular brands we install, and what to think about as you approach the design conversation.

Types of Deck Lighting

Riser Lights

Riser lights mount into the vertical face of each stair tread and cast a downward wash of light across the step below. They’re one of the most functional lighting choices on any deck with stairs, making each tread visible after dark without creating glare. They’re also durable by design; these fixtures are built to handle foot traffic in close proximity and hold up through Michigan winters without issue. If your deck has stairs and you’re adding any lighting at all, riser lights are usually the starting point.

In-Deck Lights (Recessed Deck Lights)

In-deck lights are mounted flush with the surface of the deck boards themselves, producing a soft ambient glow at ground level. They’re commonly used to define the perimeter of a deck (especially when there’s no railing), line a pathway, or accent a specific area like a sunken hot tub or fire table surround. Because they sit low and cast light outward and upward, they add a warm, layered quality to a deck’s evening atmosphere. They can also be used in stair treads as an alternative or complement to riser lights.

Post Cap Lights and Post Side Lights

Post cap lights sit atop railing (newel) posts and cast a warm glow in all directions, illuminating the deck and surrounding yard at a comfortable height. They’re one of the most visually prominent lighting elements on a deck and are often the anchor of a lighting scheme. Post side lights (sometimes called accent lights) mount to the face or side of a post rather than the top, directing light downward along the post and onto the deck surface below. Both types are available to match most railing post profiles and powder-coat colors. Lighted rail posts or rail caps are often used to mark out the two posts at the top or bottom of a set of stairs.

Under-Rail Lights

Under-rail lights mount into the top or bottom rail of a railing system, running along its length and casting a soft downward light onto the deck. They’re a linear, clean, architectural lighting element, and they work particularly well on longer rail runs where you want a consistent, defined glow along the railing. Not all railing systems allow for this style of rail lights. Feeney DesignRail allows for top and bottom rail lighting with their horizontal cable rail systems, so that’s a popular choice for many homeowners. It’s even possible to integrate lighting into natural wood top rails (like Ipe or cedar).

Custom Options: Task Lighting, Safety Floodlights, and Sconce Lighting

Beyond the standard deck lighting menu, there are custom options worth discussing for the right project. Task lighting (directional fixtures focused on a grill station, outdoor kitchen, or work surface) makes a covered cooking area genuinely functional after dark rather than just atmospheric. Safety floodlights on the house wall or an overhead structure can illuminate a larger area for security or practical use. Sconce lighting mounted to a privacy wall, pergola post, or house exterior adds an architectural quality that standard deck lights don’t provide. These options work best when they’re planned into the design from the start, not added afterward.

Ceiling Fans with Lights (Covered Decks and Porches)

If your deck is covered (a solid-roof pergola, a screened porch, or a roof-covered deck), a ceiling fan with an integrated light is one of the most practical investments you can make. In Michigan summers, the fan extends comfortable outdoor time by several degrees, and the overhead light provides broad, even illumination that railing-level fixtures can’t replicate. For covered outdoor spaces, this is the one lighting fixture we’d consider close to essential.

Lighting System Configurations

Low-Voltage Transformer Systems

The large majority of deck lighting we install runs on low-voltage (12V DC) transformer systems. A transformer plugs into a standard outdoor outlet and steps the household current down to a safe, low-voltage level that powers all the deck lights through a network of run wires. The benefits of this approach are significant: consistent, reliable light output regardless of weather or season, the ability to run multiple light types on one system, dimming capability, and timer or smart control integration. Installation requires some planning (wire runs need to be routed during the build for the cleanest result) but the performance over the life of the deck is hard to match.

Both Trex and TimberTech require their own branded transformers for warranty compliance, and their systems are designed as integrated ecosystems. Westbury’s Magena Star lighting system similarly uses a dedicated transformer and wiring system matched to their railing products. These transformers often feature dusk/dawn timers, remote controls, and other handy options.

The main limitation of a low-voltage system is that it requires an accessible outdoor outlet. If your deck doesn’t have one nearby, that’s no problem. We can factor adding one into the project scope and budget.

Solar Lights

Solar post cap lights and solar riser lights are a legitimate option for homeowners who want a simple, low-commitment lighting addition without running any wire. They charge during the day and activate automatically at dusk. Trex offers a solar option that’s popular for customers who require just a few post cap lights in a location that gets good daytime sun exposure.

The honest trade-offs: solar lights are dependent on sun exposure and perform noticeably less well on overcast days or in shaded yards, both of which are common in Washtenaw County. Light output is generally dimmer than low-voltage systems, and performance degrades as the battery ages over several years. For a primary lighting scheme, we’d steer most homeowners toward a transformer system. For a secondary accent or a location where running wire is genuinely impractical, solar is a reasonable choice.

Battery-Powered Systems

Battery-powered lights offer flexibility in placement (no wire runs, no outlet required) and are useful for accent locations or temporary setups. The limitations are similar to solar: output is lower than transformer systems, and the ongoing cost and inconvenience of battery replacement adds up over time. For permanent deck lighting, batteries are best treated as a supplement to a transformer system rather than the primary approach.

Lighting System Comparison

Brands We Install

Trex Outdoor Lighting

Trex’s lighting line covers a wide range of deck light types: riser lights, recessed in-deck lights, rail post accent lights, and post cap lights (including a solar cap option). All Trex lighting uses long-life Cree LEDs and runs on a 12V DC transformer system. A standout feature is the Trex LightHub plug-and-play connection system, which allows lights to be connected without splicing wires, making installation cleaner and more DIY-accessible than most systems. Trex lighting is designed to integrate visually with their composite decking and railing lines and is available in Charcoal Black, Classic White, and Bronze. If you’re building with Trex decking and railing, their lighting system is a natural fit for a cohesive finished look.

TimberTech Lighting

TimberTech’s lighting system, marketed under the DeckLites name, includes post cap light modules, in-deck lights, riser lights, under-rail lights, and accent lights. The system runs on 12V low-voltage and includes dimmable, Instant On fixtures with a 5-year limited warranty. A notable feature is the under-rail light, which produces a clean, hidden downlight effect between balusters that works particularly well with TimberTech’s Impression Rail systems. TimberTech’s lighting requires their branded transformer or PowerPack for warranty compliance. The product line is available in Matte White, Matte Black, Matte Espresso, and Architectural Bronze, coordinating well with their railing color palette.

Westbury (Magena Star) Lighting

Westbury’s lighting offering is the Magena Star line, produced by Digger Specialties and designed specifically to match Westbury aluminum railing in both form and finish. Magena Star includes low-voltage post cap lights, post side lights, and riser lights, all powder-coated to coordinate with Westbury’s railing colors and textures. The system uses a dedicated transformer and easy-plug wiring, and is available in both low-voltage and solar configurations. Because Westbury railing posts use a consistent 3-inch exterior profile, lighting components fit cleanly without adaptation. If your project includes Westbury aluminum railing, Magena Star is the logical lighting companion.

Feeney DesignRail Lighting

Feeney DesignRail–a customer favorite for its horizontal cable rail–offers modern, clean-lined under rail lighting strips that call out the deck’s perimeter with a subtle glow. Their 24V “Wet location” strip light has a weatherproof housing, and it features dimming capability. Feeney also offers side post lights (“accent lights”) that are wet rated and feature a beautiful, glowing 108 lumen output. The Feeney lighting options can be matched exactly to the railing finish options, including their custom colors.

What to Think About When Designing Your Lighting

A few considerations that help guide the design conversation:

Start with safety, then add ambiance. Steps and deck edges (especially for decks that have no railing) are the non-negotiable starting points. Riser lights on every stair run and some form of perimeter or post lighting to define the deck edge should be the baseline. From there, in-deck lights, under-rail lighting, and accent fixtures add atmosphere.

Think about how you use the deck. A deck used primarily for quiet evening dining has different lighting needs than one used for gatherings of twenty people. A cooking area benefits from task lighting. A hot tub surround benefits from perimeter in-deck lights. Knowing how you actually live in the space shapes the lighting design more than any other factor.

Plan the wiring during the build. Lighting added to an already existing deck almost always involves some compromise in wire routing. When lighting is planned from the start, wire runs can be hidden within the framing and posts for a completely clean result. In addition, an outdoor plug can be placed in the most useful location. If you’re building a new deck or resurfacing an existing one, the time to think about lighting is before the new deck boards go down (or the railing goes up).

Consider your yard’s sun exposure for solar. Shaded yards and overcast Michigan winters make solar a less dependable primary lighting system than in sunnier climates. This is worth factoring in early rather than discovering after installation. In Michigan, it’s a good idea to opt for wired lighting whenever possible.

Match your lighting to your decking and railing system. Each of the brands we install has a lighting line designed to coordinate with its own railing in both color and profile, so keeping the deck lighting within the same brand ecosystem as your railing is the way to go. If your deck doesn’t need any railing, we usually–but not always–propose a lighting system that’s of the same brand as your decking. If we’re installing a wood deck or wood railing, we may suggest one of a number of lighting systems to you.

How Ann Arbor Decks Approaches Lighting Design

Deck lighting is something we think about as part of the overall design, not as an afterthought. When we put together your proposal, a lighting package is included as a separate line item. That means you can see clearly how many lights we’re recommending, what types, and what the cost is, and you can adjust that package as you see fit. Want to add riser lights but skip the in-deck perimeter? We can do that. Want to upgrade to a full integrated system with dimming controls? We can do that too. The goal is a lighting plan that fits your deck, your yard, and your budget, built from the ground up to work with the materials you’ve chosen.

If you’re designing a new deck or wondering whether lighting makes sense for an existing one, we’re glad to walk through the options with you on-site.

Book your free consultation today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does deck lighting require an electrician? Low-voltage transformer systems operate at 12V DC, which is well below the threshold requiring licensed electrical work for the lighting components themselves. The transformer plugs into a standard outdoor outlet. If you don’t have an outdoor outlet where you need one, adding one does require a licensed electrician and should be budgeted separately. We can help coordinate this if needed.

How many lights does a typical deck need? It depends heavily on deck size, configuration, and the type of lighting you want. A modest 300-square-foot deck with one stair run might have four riser lights, four to six post cap lights, and a handful of in-deck perimeter lights. A larger or more complex deck could have significantly more. The lighting package in your proposal will specify exactly what we’re recommending and why.

Can lighting be added to an existing deck? Yes, in most cases. The main consideration is wire routing. On an existing deck, wires may need to be surface-mounted in channels or run through existing post cavities rather than hidden within framing. The result is functional but sometimes less clean than lighting planned during a new build. We’ll tell you honestly what’s achievable on your specific deck during a consultation.

Do deck lights hold up in Michigan winters? Quality low-voltage LED fixtures are rated for outdoor use year-round and handle Michigan freeze-thaw cycles without issue. Trex and TimberTech lights use Cree LEDs in weather-resistant housings built for exactly these conditions. Solar lights in northern climates may underperform in winter months due to reduced daylight and sun angle, which is worth factoring into any solar decision.

What’s the difference between warm white and cool white LED lights? Warm white (around 2700-3000K color temperature) produces a soft, amber-tinged glow similar to incandescent light. It’s the more popular choice for residential decks because it looks inviting and relaxed, rather than clinical. Cool white (4000K and above) is brighter and more neutral, sometimes used in task lighting or commercial settings. Trex and TimberTech both use 3000K LEDs in their primary lighting products, which sit at the warmer end of the spectrum.

Professional Deck Installation vs. DIY: A Comparison

Highlights from this Article:

• DIY deck building is legal and achievable for skilled homeowners, but the full scope of what’s involved is often underestimated at the outset.
• Permits, drawings, inspections, MISS DIG clearance, and code compliance are required regardless of who builds the deck. None of these go away for a homeowner project.
• Demolition of an existing deck is a significant project in itself, and one that homeowners frequently underestimate in both labor and disposal cost.
• Ann Arbor Decks is a TrexPro Platinum certified installer, which provides access to Trex’s extended labor warranty (up to 10 years) and our own 10-year workmanship warranty.
• The cost savings of DIY are real but smaller than most homeowners expect, because labor is only one component of the total cost.
• Professional installation carries accountability that a DIY project doesn’t. A contractor’s work is inspected, warranted, and professionally liable in a way that self-built work is not.
• For complex projects, multi-level decks, elevated decks, or anything involving structural engineering, professional installation is strongly recommended.

Skip down to the DIY vs. professional comparison or the FAQs.

This is a question worth taking seriously rather than dismissing. Homeowners who ask it are usually weighing something real: the cost of professional installation is significant, and for someone with genuine carpentry skills, a well-equipped shop, and the time to commit, building their own deck is a legitimate option. We’re not going to tell you otherwise.

What we will do is give you an honest picture of what’s actually involved: not the version that makes it sound easy, and not the version designed to scare you into hiring someone. After building decks in Washtenaw County since 2006, we have a clear view of where DIY projects go well, where they run into trouble, and what professional installation actually provides beyond showing up with tools.

What DIY Actually Involves

The visible part of building a deck (cutting boards, driving screws, framing) is the part most people picture when they think about doing it themselves. It’s real work, but it’s the part a skilled woodworker or experienced DIYer can handle. What often gets underestimated is everything that surrounds that work.

Permits and drawings. In most Washtenaw County municipalities, a deck permit requires detailed construction drawings showing footing size and depth, framing dimensions and spacing, ledger attachment details, railing specifications, and stair design. These drawings need to be accurate enough to pass plan review. Preparing them takes time and specific knowledge of local code requirements. If the drawings are incomplete or incorrect, the permit application comes back for revision, adding weeks to the project timeline.

MISS DIG clearance. Before any footing excavation can begin, a MISS DIG 811 locate request must be submitted and cleared. This is a legal requirement, not optional. The three-business-day waiting period is built into the schedule regardless of who is doing the work.

Inspections. A permitted deck requires a footing inspection before concrete is poured, potentially a framing inspection before decking goes down, and a final inspection before the deck is occupied. Each of these requires scheduling with the building department, being present or accessible, and passing before work can proceed. If an inspection fails, the work stops until corrections are made and a re-inspection is scheduled.

Material procurement and logistics. Ordering the right quantities of composite decking, hardware, concrete, and framing lumber (and having it delivered in the right sequence) takes planning. Over-ordering wastes money. Under-ordering stalls the project while you wait for additional materials. Specialty items like composite railing components, hidden fastener systems, and post hardware have lead times that need to be accounted for. When delivery errors occur (wrong color, wrong length, missing components), we handle the resolution with the supplier directly as part of the project. A homeowner managing their own materials order is on their own when that happens.

Demolition of an existing deck. If you’re replacing an existing deck, demo is its own project before the real project begins. Homeowners consistently underestimate both the labor and the cost involved. Demolishing even a modest deck means disconnecting it from the ledger, pulling fasteners and hardware, breaking apart composite or wood board by board, cutting up and hauling away framing lumber, disposing of concrete footings if they’re being replaced, and renting a dumpster or making multiple dump runs. On a larger or older deck, demo alone can take a full weekend and generate a surprising disposal bill. We include demolition as part of our project scope when it’s needed, so there’s no hidden second job before the build can start.

Tool requirements. A deck build requires more than a circular saw and a drill. Post hole diggers or a rented auger, concrete mixing equipment, a miter saw for angle cuts, levels, chalk lines, impact drivers, specialized jigs for hidden fasteners, post levels, framing squares, and board-spacing tools are all part of a complete tool kit. We own all of it, including the handy extras that make a job faster and more precise. For a DIYer, renting what you don’t own adds cost, scheduling complexity, and return trips when a rental period runs long.

None of this is impossible for a capable homeowner. It’s just more than most people account for when they start thinking about the project.

Where the Cost Comparison Actually Lands

The assumed logic of DIY is: materials cost X, a contractor charges X plus labor, so by doing it yourself you save the labor. This is roughly true but the savings are often smaller than expected, for a few reasons.

First, professional contractors buy materials at contractor pricing that homeowners typically can’t access. The difference varies by material and supplier, but it’s not unusual for a contractor’s material cost to be noticeably lower than retail pricing on the same products. Some of the labor savings get offset by paying retail for materials.

Second, the permit, drawings, and inspection management that a professional handles have real value and real cost in time. When we prepare drawings, submit permit applications, coordinate with the building department, and manage inspections, those hours are absorbed into the project. A DIY homeowner pays for those same hours with their own time.

Third, mistakes are more expensive when you’re doing it yourself. A professional who frames a ledger incorrectly fixes it as part of the job. A homeowner who frames a ledger incorrectly either catches it at inspection (which means redoing the work) or doesn’t catch it, which means a structural problem that may not surface for years. The cost of errors on a professional project is the contractor’s problem. The cost of errors on a DIY project is entirely yours.

This doesn’t mean DIY is a bad financial choice. For a homeowner who genuinely has the skills, the tools, the time, and the patience for the full process, the savings can be real and meaningful. The key is going in with accurate expectations about what those savings actually are, and what you’re taking on in exchange for them.

What Professional Installation Actually Provides

Beyond the labor itself, a professional deck installation from a licensed contractor comes with several things a DIY project doesn’t.

Speed and efficiency. This is what our crew does every day, across every combination of materials, configurations, and site conditions that Michigan throws at us. That repetition produces a pace that a homeowner working weekends simply can’t match. Our team works through rain, cold, and grey skies: essentially every weather Michigan offers short of a tornado. A DIY project that stretches across weekends and weather delays through an entire spring can turn a project that would take our crew days into one that takes a homeowner months, with the job site sitting open and the deck unusable in the meantime.

TrexPro Platinum certification and extended labor warranties. Ann Arbor Decks is a certified TrexPro Platinum installer, and the highest level of recognition Trex awards to contractors. TrexPro Platinum status requires demonstrated mastery of Trex products and installation techniques, a valid contractor’s license, and appropriate insurance. It’s not a designation that every deck builder holds.

One of the most tangible benefits of that certification is access to Trex’s extended labor warranty, which is only available when a deck is installed by a TrexPro Platinum contractor. If you have either Trex decking or Trex railing installed, the labor warranty runs five years. If you have both installed, that extends to ten years, covering the cost of removal, disposal, and reinstallation if a warranted material defect occurs. A DIY installation or an installation by a non-certified contractor does not qualify for this coverage.

In addition to the Trex labor warranty, Ann Arbor Decks backs every project we build with our own workmanship warranty. That covers the quality of our installation work regardless of the product: Trex, TimberTech, cedar, Ipe, or any other material we install. It applies to every project, full stop. Together, these warranties provide a level of protection that a self-built deck simply can’t replicate.

Accountability. A licensed contractor’s work is tied to their license. If the deck fails inspection, they fix it. If there’s a structural problem that emerges after the build, there’s a party to hold accountable and, in most cases, a warranty to invoke. A homeowner building their own deck is both the contractor and the client; there’s no one else in the chain when something goes wrong.

Code knowledge. Building codes for decks cover dozens of specific requirements: footing depth and sizing, ledger attachment methods and flashing, joist and beam span tables, railing height and baluster spacing, stair geometry, handrail graspability, hardware specifications. A professional who builds decks regularly knows these requirements in detail and applies them without having to look each one up. A first-time DIY builder is learning the code from scratch on a project where getting it wrong has structural and safety consequences.

Warranty. As noted above, composite decking warranties often have installation requirements. The Trex extended labor warranty (up to ten years for decking and railing combined) is only available through TrexPro Platinum installers. This is not a minor distinction: it means a homeowner who installs their own Trex deck is leaving a significant warranty benefit on the table.

Insurance. A licensed, insured contractor carries general liability insurance. If something goes wrong during construction (a footing collapses, equipment causes damage, an injury occurs on the job site), the contractor’s insurance covers it. A homeowner doing their own work has no such coverage for construction-phase incidents, and a homeowner’s insurance policy may not cover self-built work that isn’t permitted and inspected.

Design input. A professional deck builder brings a body of experience with what works and what doesn’t, in layout, material selection, structural detailing, and how decks hold up over time in Michigan’s climate specifically. That’s not something a YouTube tutorial provides.

DIY vs. Professional Installation at a Glance

When Professional Installation Is Especially Recommended

For a straightforward ground-level or low deck with simple rectangular framing, a skilled and patient homeowner can produce a good result with proper research and preparation. But there are projects where professional installation is strongly advisable regardless of the homeowner’s skill level:

• Elevated decks and second-story decks. The structural stakes are higher, the framing is more complex, and the consequences of errors are more serious. A deck that fails structurally at six feet off the ground is a different situation than one at grade.
• Decks attached to the house (ledger-mounted). Ledger attachment is one of the most code-sensitive and failure-prone details in deck construction. Improper ledger connections are among the leading causes of deck collapses–and water intrusion issues. Getting this right requires understanding both the structural requirements and the waterproofing details that prevent rot at the connection over time.
• Multi-level or complex-geometry decks. Angles, multiple levels, and irregular shapes multiply the planning and execution complexity significantly.
• Projects requiring engineering. Some municipalities require engineer-stamped drawings for certain deck configurations. This is outside the scope of a typical DIY project.
• Projects with integrated features. Outdoor kitchens, built-in lighting, under-deck drainage systems, pergolas, and similar elements each add layers of complexity that benefit from professional coordination.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it legal to build my own deck in Michigan? Yes. Michigan law allows homeowners to build on their own property, and a homeowner can apply for a permit for work they will perform themselves. The requirements (drawings, inspections, code compliance) are the same as for a contractor. What is not legal in Michigan is using a contractor who then asks you to pull the permit in your name for work they perform. That arrangement protects the contractor at your expense, and is a serious red flag.

Will a DIY deck void my composite decking warranty? It depends on the manufacturer and product line. Some composite warranties are valid for any properly installed deck regardless of who installs it. Others, particularly at the premium tier, require installation by a certified professional for full warranty coverage. We recommend checking the specific warranty terms for any product you’re considering before you decide how to proceed.

What if I want to do some of the work myself and hire out the rest? Ann Arbor Decks does not take on partial projects. We occasionally get requests to install just the footings and ledger, with the homeowner planning to complete the framing and decking themselves. We understand the thinking, but our answer is no, and here’s why. When we pull a building permit, we are pulling it for the entire deck. That makes us legally responsible for the full scope of the project through final inspection. We’re not in a position to stake our license on work we didn’t perform. It’s also worth knowing that in Michigan, a licensed contractor cannot legally work under a homeowner permit, so the arrangement would need to be structured with care regardless. If you’re set on doing some portion of the work yourself, you’d need to find a contractor whose business model supports partial scopes, and you’d need to sort out the permit structure carefully with them.

How do I find a reliable deck contractor in the Ann Arbor area? Look for a contractor who is licensed with the state of Michigan, carries general liability and workers’ compensation insurance, and handles their own permits. Ask for references from recent local projects and check that they have experience with the specific materials and configurations you’re considering. A contractor who hesitates on any of these points deserves scrutiny.

The Bottom Line

DIY deck building is a real option for the right homeowner: someone with carpentry experience, adequate tools, time to manage the full process including permits and inspections, and comfort taking on the accountability for the result. For that person, the savings are genuine.

For most homeowners, the hidden complexity of the permit process, the learning curve on code requirements, the coordination of materials and inspections, and the risk profile of getting structural details wrong make professional installation a better investment than the initial cost difference suggests. A deck that’s permitted, inspected, structurally sound, and covered by a contractor’s warranty is a different asset than one that isn’t, particularly when it comes time to sell the home.

If you’d like an accurate picture of what professional installation would actually cost for your specific project, we’re glad to put one together.

Book your free estimate today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.

Spring Deck Cleaning: Tips & Tricks to Make It Easy…er

Highlights from this Article:

• Wood and composite decks have genuinely different cleaning needs. It’s important to use the correct method so you avoid scratches or damage.
• Spring cleaning is also your best opportunity to catch soft spots, rot, and loose fasteners before they become expensive repairs.
• Pressure washing is fine for both deck types at low settings (1,500 PSI or below) with a fan-tip nozzle, but technique matters.
• Wood decks need to be stained or sealed after cleaning. Composite decks don’t. Once clean, they’re ready for the season.
• Shady yards common in Ann Arbor are more prone to mildew on composite surfaces; treat it promptly with a manufacturer-approved cleaner.

Skip down to the FAQs or the Composite Deck Cleaning section.

Every spring, it’s the same story. The snow melts, the days get longer, and you walk out to your back deck for the first time in months, only to find a winter’s worth of grime, leaf debris, and weathering staring back at you. Before you fire up the grill and pull out the patio furniture, your deck deserves a proper cleaning.

The good news: it’s not as hard as it looks. With the right approach and a few hours on a mild spring day, you can have your deck looking renewed and ready for the season ahead. The key is knowing what your deck is made of, because wood and composite decks have genuinely different needs, and using the wrong method on either one can cause more harm than good.

Cleaning a Wood Deck

Wood decks reward careful attention. When you clean yours thoughtfully each spring, you’re not just improving its appearance. You’re extending its life and setting it up for a successful staining or sealing season.

What You’ll Need

• A stiff-bristle brush (avoid wire brushes, which can damage wood fibers)
• A garden hose or pressure washer (more on pressure washing below)
• A dedicated wood deck cleaner or a DIY solution of warm water, dish soap, and white vinegar
• Rubber gloves and eye protection
• A putty knife or paint scraper for stubborn debris

Step-by-Step

Start with a thorough sweep. Before any water touches your deck, sweep away leaves, dirt, and debris, paying special attention to the gaps between boards. Debris trapped in those gaps holds moisture against the wood, which accelerates decay. A putty knife works well for clearing packed-in material.

Inspect as you go. Spring cleaning is the perfect time to look for soft spots, cracked boards, loose fasteners, or signs of rot. Catching these issues early means a simple repair instead of a costly replacement. Press a screwdriver gently into the wood in a few places. If it sinks easily, that board may need attention.

Apply your cleaner. Wet the deck surface with your hose first, then apply your wood deck cleaner according to the product instructions. A quality deck cleaner will break down mildew, algae, and gray weathering. Let it dwell for the recommended time; don’t let it dry on the surface.

Scrub with the grain. Using your stiff-bristle brush, scrub the cleaner into the wood with the grain, not against it. This lifts embedded dirt without roughing up the wood fibers.

Rinse thoroughly. Rinse the entire surface completely, working the water into the gaps between boards. Leftover cleaner residue can interfere with staining or sealing later.

A Word on Pressure Washing Wood

Pressure washing a wood deck is effective but requires care. Keep the pressure at or below 1,500 PSI, use a fan-tip nozzle (never a pinpoint jet), and maintain a consistent distance of at least 12 inches from the surface. Too much pressure can raise the wood grain, leaving the surface fuzzy and actually making it harder to seal properly. When in doubt, a lower setting and a scrub brush will get you there safely.

Don’t Skip the Staining Step

Once your wood deck is clean and fully dry (typically 48 to 72 hours after washing), it’s ready for staining or sealing. This step isn’t optional if you want your deck to hold up through another Michigan year. A quality penetrating stain or sealant protects against moisture, UV damage, and the cycle of freezing and thawing that takes a real toll on untreated wood.

Cleaning a Composite Deck

Here’s the good news composite deck owners have been waiting for: cleaning your deck is significantly easier than cleaning a wood deck. Composite materials don’t absorb moisture, won’t rot, and resist mold and mildew far better than natural wood. That said, composite decks do accumulate dirt, pollen, and organic debris, especially in shady yards, and benefit from a proper spring refresh.

What You’ll Need

• A soft-bristle brush or deck mop
• A garden hose
• A composite-approved deck cleaner (check your manufacturer’s recommendations)
• Mild dish soap for everyday dirt
• Rubber gloves

Step-by-Step

Clear the deck completely. Remove all furniture, planters, and mats before you begin. Rubber-backed mats left on composite decking can trap moisture and promote mildew growth. This is a good time to let the surface fully air out.

Sweep and rinse. Remove loose debris and give the surface a good rinse with your garden hose. For most composite decks, this alone handles a surprising amount of surface grime.

Clean with a composite-safe cleaner. Apply your cleaner and scrub gently with a soft-bristle brush, working with the board’s grain pattern. Composite decking can scratch if you scrub aggressively or use an abrasive pad; a gentle hand and the right brush gets the job done without the risk.

Address mold and mildew promptly. Shady yards, common in many Ann Arbor neighborhoods, can encourage mildew growth on composite surfaces. Most composite manufacturers approve a diluted solution of white vinegar and water, or their own branded cleaner, for mildew treatment. Treat affected areas and rinse thoroughly.

Rinse completely. Finish with a full rinse to clear away cleaner residue, working the water into the board gaps. Allow the deck to dry fully before returning furniture.

Pressure Washing Composite

Most composite manufacturers permit pressure washing at low settings (typically 1,500 PSI or below) using a fan-tip nozzle. Always check your specific product’s guidelines, as some manufacturers void warranties if pressure washing instructions aren’t followed. Keep the nozzle moving and maintain a consistent distance to avoid streaking.

No Staining Required

Unlike wood, composite decking never needs to be stained or sealed. That’s one of its most appealing qualities. Once it’s clean, it’s ready for the season. Simply return your furniture, add a potted plant or two, and you’re done.

A Few Tips That Apply to Both Deck Types

• Clean on a mild, overcast day when possible. Direct sun can dry cleaners too quickly before they’ve done their work.
• Work in manageable sections rather than treating the whole deck at once, especially on larger decks.
• Don’t overlook the railings, posts, and stairs. These surfaces accumulate just as much winter grime as the decking boards themselves.
• Check underneath the deck while you’re at it. Clearing debris from under your deck improves drainage and reduces the conditions that accelerate wood rot in the structural framing.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I clean my deck in Ann Arbor? A thorough spring cleaning is the most important annual maintenance task for any deck. Many homeowners also do a lighter fall cleanup (clearing leaves and debris before winter, to prevent organic material from sitting against the deck surface through the freeze-thaw months. In shady yards where mildew is more likely, a mid-summer rinse can also help composite decks stay looking their best.

Can I use a pressure washer on my composite deck? Most composite manufacturers permit pressure washing at low settings (typically 1,500 PSI or below) using a fan-tip nozzle. Always check your specific product’s care guidelines before you start, since some manufacturers include pressure washing instructions in their warranty terms. Keep the nozzle moving and maintain a consistent distance to avoid streaking or surface damage.

What’s the best cleaner for a wood deck? Purpose-made wood deck cleaners are your safest bet; they’re formulated to break down mildew, algae, and gray weathering without damaging wood fibers. For light everyday cleaning, a solution of warm water, dish soap, and white vinegar works well. Avoid bleach-based cleaners, which can strip natural wood color and degrade wood fibers over time with repeated use.

How long do I need to wait after cleaning my wood deck before staining or sealing it? Generally 48 to 72 hours of dry weather after washing. The wood needs to be fully dry before stain or sealer can penetrate properly. Applying it too soon traps moisture in the wood, which can lead to peeling and uneven finish. Check the weather forecast before you start your cleaning project and plan accordingly.

My deck has some soft spots: is that a cleaning problem or something more serious? More serious, unfortunately. Soft spots in deck boards are a sign of wood rot, which no amount of cleaning can reverse. Spring is actually the ideal time to catch these issues before the season begins. If you find soft spots, loose boards, or fasteners that have worked their way up, it’s worth having a professional take a look before the problem spreads to the structural framing underneath.

Does cleaning a composite deck void the warranty? Not if you follow the manufacturer’s care guidelines. Most composite warranties actually require regular cleaning as a condition of coverage. Neglecting the deck can void protection, not the cleaning itself. Using harsh chemicals, abrasive scrubbers, or a pressure washer above the recommended PSI are the things most likely to create warranty issues. When in doubt, stick to manufacturer-approved cleaners and methods.

When Cleaning Isn’t Enough

Sometimes spring reveals more than just a dirty deck. It reveals a deck that needs attention beyond what a good scrubbing can fix. Soft spots, significant graying, loose or damaged boards, and deteriorating railings are all signs that it’s time for a professional assessment.

At Ann Arbor Decks, we’re happy to take a look. We’ve been helping Washtenaw County homeowners maintain, repair, and rebuild their outdoor spaces since 2006, and we love helping families get the most out of what they already have, not just what they might build next.

If your spring cleaning uncovers something you’re not sure about, reach out for a free consultation. Sometimes a small repair today saves a major replacement down the road.

Carpenter Bees Damaging Your Old Wood Deck or Gazebo? Here Are Some Solutions.

Highlights from this Article:

• Carpenter bee damage to cedar decks, railings, posts, and gazebos is increasingly common across Washtenaw County. Our crew sees it on job sites year-round.
• Unsealed, unpainted, or weathered cedar is the most vulnerable. Properly finished wood is significantly more resistant.
• Damage often goes unaddressed for months or years. By which point the structural impact can be serious.
• Composite decking is immune to carpenter bees. For homeowners who’ve dealt with repeated damage, resurfacing with composite is often the right long-term answer.

Skip down to the wood vs. composite comparison or the FAQs.

Our owner, Josiah Shurtliff, has been building decks in the Ann Arbor area since 2006. Over the past several years, he and our crew have noticed a pattern that’s hard to ignore. Carpenter bee damage to wood decks, railings, posts, and backyard structures is showing up more frequently, and by the time most homeowners call us, it’s been going on longer than they realized.

Here’s how to recognize carpenter bee damage, why cedar is particularly vulnerable, what it means for your deck structurally, and what your options are when you find damage.

What Carpenter Bees Actually Do

Carpenter bees are large, heavy-bodied bees that look similar to bumblebees. Unlike bumblebees, they don’t live in colonies. The females bore into wood to create individual nesting galleries. The entry hole is almost perfectly round, about half an inch in diameter (the size of a small coin, and typically appears on the underside or end grain of a board where it’s less exposed to weather.

Once inside, the bee turns and tunnels with the grain of the wood, sometimes extending several feet. That tunnel becomes a nesting chamber. The momma bee lays eggs, seals the chamber, and the next generation emerges the following spring, often returning to the same structure to bore new tunnels nearby. Year after year, the damage compounds.

There’s a secondary damage problem that many homeowners don’t know about: woodpeckers. Once carpenter bee larvae are established inside a piece of wood, woodpeckers will hammer into it to get at them. A post or railing that a carpenter bee has been working on for a season or two can end up looking like it lost a fight with a power drill (holes, splits, and splintered wood that goes well beyond the original bee entry points).

Why Cedar Is So Vulnerable

Cedar is a beautiful decking material and naturally rot-resistant, but it has a well-known vulnerability to carpenter bees: when it’s left bare, weathered, or inadequately finished, it’s one of their preferred targets. Carpenter bees strongly prefer untreated, unpainted, unfinished softwood, and cedar that hasn’t been properly sealed, stained, or painted is essentially an open invitation.

This is something Josiah and our crew see repeatedly on assessments. A homeowner puts in a cedar deck, enjoys it for a season or two, and either skips the initial finishing or lets it lapse. Within a few years, the railings and posts are dotted with entry holes. By the time we’re called out, the damage has often spread well beyond the surface boards into the posts and structural framing, components that are harder and more expensive to replace than decking or fascia.

Pressure-treated pine is less attractive to carpenter bees due to the chemical treatment, but it’s not entirely immune, particularly on older decks where the treatment has weathered and the wood has dried out and cracked.

Why Homeowners Often Don’t Act Quickly

We get carpenter bee damage calls year-round, but the actual damage happens in spring when female bees are most active. The reason we hear from homeowners in every season is that most people don’t act on it right away.

Part of that is the nature of the damage itself. The entry holes are small and sometimes in locations that aren’t immediately obvious (on the underside of a rail cap, at the base of a post, on the fascia boards that frame the deck’s edge). A homeowner might notice a hole or two, assume it’s minor, and intend to deal with it later. Meanwhile the bees are extending their tunnels, laying eggs, and the woodpeckers are following.

By the time “later” arrives, what might have been a resurfacing project has become a structural repair or a full replacement. We’re not saying this to alarm anyone. We’re saying it because catching damage early genuinely matters, and we’d rather see people act on it sooner than wait.

What We Find on Assessments

When we’re called out for a consultation, here’s what we’re looking at:

• Deck boards and railings: Entry holes, surface damage, and softness or sponginess in the wood around affected areas.
• Posts: Posts are a particular concern because they’re structural. A post that’s been extensively tunneled can lose significant load-bearing capacity. We probe posts carefully, especially at the base and cap where bees tend to concentrate.
• Ledger board and framing: If bees have been active long enough, we check whether the damage has reached the framing. This is where things get more serious structurally.
• Gazebos and pergolas: We’re seeing a lot of carpenter bee damage on gazebos and wood pergolas, particularly on exposed rafter tails, posts, and any bare cedar or pine components. These structures often get less maintenance attention than the main deck.

Your Options When You Find Damage

Full Resurfacing with Composite

For homeowners who have dealt with significant carpenter bee damage, or who simply don’t want to deal with the ongoing maintenance and vulnerability of wood, resurfacing with composite decking is the most permanent solution. Composite boards are made from wood fiber and plastic; carpenter bees have no interest in boring into them. A composite deck surface, composite or PVC railings, and properly treated or composite post systems eliminate the carpenter bee problem for the life of the deck.

We’ve done a number of these projects in Washtenaw County where the trigger was exactly this: a cedar deck with recurring carpenter bee damage, a homeowner who’s tired of fighting it, and a decision to resurface with composite once and not think about it again. It’s a sound investment, particularly when the framing is still in good shape and a full replacement isn’t necessary.

Repair and Refinish the Existing Wood

Where the damage is caught early and the structural framing is sound, homeowners can replace damaged boards, repair or replace affected posts, fill existing holes, and refinish the wood with a quality paint or solid stain. Properly finished cedar (well-sealed and maintained) is significantly more resistant to carpenter bees than bare or weathered wood.

This is a viable path, but it comes with an honest caveat: it requires follow-through on maintenance. If the deck goes bare again, the bees will be back. We’ll tell you this plainly when we give you your options.

Wood vs. Composite: Carpenter Bee Vulnerability at a Glance

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I have carpenter bee damage? Look for round entry holes approximately half an inch in diameter, typically on the underside of horizontal boards, the tops of rail caps, or the faces of posts. You may also see coarse sawdust (called frass) below entry points, or yellow staining from bee waste near holes. If woodpeckers have been active on your deck or pergola, that’s another strong indicator. They’re usually following the bees.

Are carpenter bees dangerous to people? Generally no. Male carpenter bees can be territorial and will hover aggressively near their nesting sites, but they have no stinger. Female carpenter bees do have stingers but are docile and rarely sting unless directly handled. The danger is to your wood structures, not to you.

Can I treat the existing holes myself? You can fill holes with wood filler or steel wool and caulk as a temporary measure, and insecticide dust applied to active holes in spring can kill larvae before they emerge. But DIY treatment addresses the symptom, not the underlying vulnerability. Bare, unfinished wood will attract new bees the following season. If the damage is more than superficial, a professional assessment is worth it.

Does composite decking really eliminate the problem? For the deck surface and composite or PVC railing components, yes. Carpenter bees bore into wood fiber; they have no interest in composite or PVC materials. If your post system uses wood posts (even on a composite deck), those should be addressed. We can discuss post options during a consultation.

How quickly does carpenter bee damage become a structural problem? It depends on the scope of activity and how long it’s been going on. A single season of moderate activity on a few boards is usually a surface issue. Several seasons of heavy activity on posts or framing members can meaningfully compromise structural integrity. This is why we encourage homeowners not to wait once they notice it.

Is this a problem specific to the Ann Arbor area? Carpenter bees are common throughout the eastern United States, but our crew has noticed an uptick in damage calls across Washtenaw County over the past several years. Whether that reflects a growing bee population, more wood decks reaching the age where unsealed wood becomes attractive, or simply greater awareness, we can’t say for certain. What we can say is that it’s a real and growing part of what we’re seeing on assessments in this area.

Think You Might Have Carpenter Bee Damage?

If you’ve noticed holes in your deck railings, posts, or backyard structures, it’s worth having someone take a look before the next spring season brings another round of activity. Our free on-site assessments take about 30 to 45 minutes, and we’ll give you a clear, honest picture of what we find along with your options.

Book your free assessment today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.

Deck Resurfacing vs. Replacement: Which Is Right for Your Ann Arbor Area Home?

Highlights from this Article:

• Resurfacing replaces the deck boards and railing on an existing frame. While most customers resurface with composite (to avoid wood maintenance), it's possible to resurface with wood as well.
• Resurfacing is good option only if: A) the underlying structure is still sound, and B) the framing will last for the lifespan of the new decking you're putting onto it.
• Putting new decking and/or railing on a sound existing deck frame will give you the look a brand-new deck.
• Full deck replacement makes more sense when there's significant structural damage, post rot, or widespread joist failure. It's also the best choice if you want to change the deck layout in a significant way.
• Rebuilding the deck is the way to go when the cost of rebuilding barely differs from the cost of resurfacing. However, resurfacing is usually less expensive.
• Ann Arbor Decks evaluates every deck individually. Where repair is a realistic option, we present both choices. Where it isn't, we'll tell you honestly.

"Should I rebuild or resurface (reskin) my deck?"

It's one of the most common questions we hear at Ann Arbor Decks — and the honest answer is that it depends. There's no universal rule that applies to every deck in every backyard. What we can do is walk you through how we think about the decision, what we look for during an assessment, and what your realistic options are likely to be.

What Is Deck Resurfacing?

Resurfacing ("re-decking" or "reskinning") means removing and replacing the deck boards — and often the railing — while keeping the existing structural frame in place: the posts, beams, joists, and footings that hold everything up. If your frame is solid, resurfacing can give your outdoor space an essentially new look and feel at a meaningfully lower cost than a full teardown and rebuild. During a resurfacing project, we can do smaller repairs and joist replacements, and not infrequently we may replace a footing or even a beam. Another thing worth knowing upfront: if your deck has stairs, we typically rebuild them rather than resurface them.

At Ann Arbor Decks, resurfacing can take a few different forms depending on your situation.

• Composite overlay on an existing wood frame: We remove your old decking and replace it with Trex or TimberTech composite or PVC, giving you a low-maintenance surface on a frame you don't have to replace. This is one of our most popular resurfacing approaches for decks whose frames are still in good shape.
• Wood-on-wood resurfacing: In cases where the substructure isn't too old and the homeowner prefers to stay with natural wood, we can resurface with new cedar or pressure-treated boards.

What Is Full Deck Replacement?

Full replacement means exactly what it sounds like: the existing deck comes down completely — decking, railing, framing, posts and footings — and a new deck is built from below the ground up. It's often (but not always) a larger investment than resurfacing, but it's the right call when the existing structure is no longer safe, or when the cost of repairing the frame approaches or exceeds the cost of starting fresh.

When we do a full replacement, we handle all demolition and disposal. Michigan requires that pressure-treated lumber be disposed of at an authorized facility — not burned or placed in regular trash — and we handle that responsibly on every job.

How We Assess Your Deck

During a free on-site consultation, our team walks your deck carefully — not just looking at the surface, but probing the structure underneath. Here's what we're evaluating:

Signs That Point Toward Resurfacing

• Deck boards that are worn, cracked, splintered, or grayed — but structurally intact underneath
• Railing that's cosmetically tired but attached to sound posts
• A frame that's in good structural condition — generally under 15 years for a low-to-the-ground deck, potentially up to 20 to 25 years for an elevated deck with good airflow underneath
• A deck that was originally well-built with quality materials

Signs That Point Toward Full Replacement

• Post rot at ground level: When posts have rotted at or below the surface, the structural integrity of the deck is usually compromised. If the rot is isolated to one or two posts and footings while the rest of the frame is sound, we can replace those posts and footings as part of the resurfacing project. Widespread post rot, however, points toward full replacement.
• Widespread joist damage: Soft, spongy, or visibly rotted joists mean the frame can't safely support new decking. Replacing a few joists is sometimes feasible; replacing most of them usually isn't cost-effective.
• Soft or rotted decking throughout: When the deterioration is widespread rather than isolated, replacement is almost always the more sensible path.
• Age — but with an important nuance: For a deck that sits close to the ground where moisture accumulates, we start looking very carefully at the framing once it reaches 15 to 20 years. For an elevated deck with good airflow underneath — which dries out more effectively after rain — a well-maintained frame may be a viable resurfacing candidate up to 20 to 25 years. Either way, age is a flag to assess closely, not an automatic verdict.

Our Honest Policy

At Ann Arbor Decks, we don't have a financial interest in steering you toward replacement when resurfacing is a realistic option — or toward resurfacing when your deck genuinely needs to come down. Our approach is straightforward:

• If we assess your deck and believe a full rebuild is the only responsible recommendation, we'll tell you that and quote accordingly.
• If we believe resurfacing is a viable option, we'll present both choices — resurfacing and full replacement — with clear pricing for each, and let you decide what makes sense for your home and budget.

We've been doing this since 2006. Our reputation in Washtenaw County is built on honest assessments and work that holds up over time, not on upselling jobs that don't need to be bigger than they are.

A Quick Guide: Resurfacing or Replacement?

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put composite decking over my existing wood deck boards? Not directly on top — the old boards need to come off first. But once we remove the existing decking, we can install composite boards on your existing frame, provided the frame passes our structural assessment. Many homeowners are pleasantly surprised to find their framing is in better shape than the worn surface suggested.

How long does a resurfaced deck last? That depends largely on what you resurface with. A composite surface installed on a sound frame will last 25 to 30 years with minimal maintenance. A wood resurfacing will last 15 to 25+ years with consistent care. In either case, the longevity of the resurfaced deck is ultimately tied to the health of the frame underneath — which is exactly why we assess it carefully before recommending resurfacing.

My deck is only 10 years old — do I really need to replace it? Age alone doesn't determine the answer. A 10-year-old deck that was poorly built or inadequately maintained may need replacement, while a 20-year-old deck with quality framing and consistent care might be an excellent resurfacing candidate. The only way to know for certain is an on-site assessment.

What happens to my old deck after you demolish it? We handle all demolition debris responsibly. Michigan requires that pressure-treated lumber be disposed of at an authorized facility — it cannot be burned or placed in household trash. Depending on the size of your project, we'll either use our own trailers to haul the material to an approved disposal site, or arrange for a dumpster service to handle it.

Is resurfacing always cheaper than replacing? Usually — but not always. When the framing requires significant repair alongside a new surface, the combined cost can approach or exceed a full replacement. That's one of the reasons we evaluate the full picture before quoting. We want you making a decision based on accurate numbers, not a low estimate that grows once we get into the work.

Let's Take a Look

If your deck is showing its age, the best first step is an honest, professional assessment. At Ann Arbor Decks, our on-site consultations are free, no-pressure, and typically take just 30 to 45 minutes. We'll walk your deck with you, tell you what we see, and give you a clear picture of your options — including a detailed written quote for whichever path makes sense.

Book your free estimate today. No pressure, no obligation — just a straightforward conversation about what your deck actually needs.

Environmental Sustainability: What’s Better, Wood or Composite Decking?

Highlights from this article:

• Both natural wood decking and composite decking carry trade-offs, so the most environmentally responsible choice depends on which one you value the most.
• Composite decking uses recycled materials (waste wood and used plastics), and it lasts longer. On the flip side, it takes more energy to produce, and it cannot itself be recycled.
• Wood decking is long-lasting, biodegradable, carbon-storing, and renewable — but most types require chemical stains or paints for maintenance and longevity.
• Pressure-treated pine, like composite decking, must be disposed of in a landfill at the end of its usable life.

Skip down to the quick comparison table or the FAQs.

You’ve decided to build a deck. You care about the environment. Now comes a question that’s more complicated than it looks: Which decking material is actually better for the planet?

Both wood and composite decking have genuine environmental strengths, and both carry real environmental costs. What we can do is lay out the trade-offs honestly, so you can make the choice that best reflects your values.

Wood Decking: Natural, Renewable — and Not Without Trade-Offs

Cedar: The Environmentally Friendlier Wood Option

Cedar is one of the most ecologically responsible choices in the wood decking category. Cedar trees grow relatively quickly, and responsible forestry practices — including certification from the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) — ensure that harvested trees are replanted, often at rates of 10 to 20 saplings per tree logged. The FSC-certified cedar used by Ann Arbor Decks means you’re supporting forests actively managed for long-term sustainability.

Cedar also brings a meaningful end-of-life advantage: it biodegrades. When a cedar deck eventually reaches the end of its useful life, it returns to the earth (a fate composite decking cannot share).

On the carbon side, wood has a compelling story. Trees absorb carbon dioxide as they grow, and that carbon stays locked in the wood throughout the life of your deck. A 2025 life-cycle analysis found that softwood lumber actually has a negative carbon impact, meaning that its use in construction reduces atmospheric carbon rather than adding to it.

The honest downside: Cedar still requires logging, transportation, and periodic maintenance — including staining and sealing products that carry their own chemical footprint.

Pressure-Treated Pine: The Chemical Question

Pressure-treated ("PT") pine’s environmental story has improved significantly over the past two decades. Until 2004 (two years before Ann Arbor Decks had our start), virtually all residential PT lumber was treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) — a preservative containing arsenic. Happily, the EPA and the lumber industry phased out CCA for residential use, replacing it with safer alternatives like Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) and Copper Azole.

Today’s PT pine is meaningfully better, especially when disposed of properly. The larger environmental case for PT pine is its longevity. The same chemicals that raise concern are what allow a fast-growing, affordable species to serve as a long-lasting building material, reducing how many trees need to be harvested over time.

The honest downside: Disposing of old PT lumber requires care. Never burn it, as the smoke can release toxic compounds. The State of Michigan requires us to dispose of PT pine at an authorized location. You can rest assured that if we’re demolishing your existing deck to rebuild it, we will ethically and legally dispose of the waste substructure, decking, and railing.

Composite and PVC Decking: Recycled Content, Petroleum Origins

The Recycled Content Argument

The environmental case for composite decking starts with what it’s made of. TimberTech boards incorporate 60% to 85% recycled materials. Trex manufactures its decking from up to 95% recycled and reclaimed content — sawdust, reclaimed wood fiber, and recycled polyethylene film.

Trex has evolved its plastic sourcing over time. The company now relies heavily on clear polyethylene shrink wrap (commercial pallet wrapping) rather than the consumer plastics like grocery bags that it originally used when it pioneered its deck product. It’s a smart shift: pallet wrap is generated in enormous volumes and has very limited recycling options in conventional waste streams. Trex alone diverts more than one billion pounds of plastic film from landfills every year.

Composite decking’s low-maintenance nature also has environmental implications. It never needs staining, sealing, or chemical treatments — a meaningful reduction in the maintenance chemicals most wood decks require over a 25-year lifespan.

The End-of-Life Problem

The wood fiber and plastic components in composite decking are currently inseparable, making the material impossible to recycle with today’s technology. Unlike wood decking, composite does not biodegrade. So, when a composite deck on a treated pine frame ends its life, both the treated pine and the composite elements must be disposed of in a landfill together.

How the Two Compare: An Environmental Lens

Which Choice Is Right for the Environmentally Conscious Homeowner: Cedar, PT Pine or Composite?

Choose FSC-certified cedar if renewable resources, carbon storage, and end-of-life biodegradability matter most. Cedar from a responsibly managed forest grows back, stores carbon while it lives, and returns to the earth when it’s done. The trade-off is ongoing maintenance and a shorter lifespan without consistent care.

Choose composite if diverting plastic from landfills and eliminating long-term maintenance chemicals are your priorities. Composite makes a real and tangible environmental contribution — the trade-off is petroleum origins and a landfill destination at end of life.

Choose pressure-treated pine if affordability and renewable sourcing are your primary concerns and you’re committed to responsible maintenance and disposal. Today’s PT pine is a far cry from the arsenic-treated lumber of previous decades — but be mindful of its chemical footprint near water.

A Note on Certification

Look for the FSC logo on wood products. It guarantees the wood came from a forest managed for long-term sustainability — with replanting requirements, habitat protections, and supply chain accountability. Not all cedar or pine on the market meets this standard, but it’s available if you ask for it.

What the FSC Labels Mean | Forest Stewardship Council

For composite products, Trex and TimberTech both publish environmental data and third-party audit results worth reviewing if you want to dig deeper into a manufacturer’s claims.

Trex® Environmental Sustainability

Sustainability – TimberTech

Frequently Asked Questions

Is composite decking environmentally friendly? It’s genuinely complicated. Composite’s use of recycled materials meaningfully diverts plastic and wood waste from landfills — a real benefit. However, the plastic originates as a petroleum byproduct, and composite boards can’t be recycled at end of life. Whether that trade-off feels "green" depends on which environmental values you weigh most heavily.

Is pressure-treated pine safe for the environment today? Much safer than it used to be. The arsenic-based CCA treatment standard until 2004 has been replaced with less toxic alternatives like ACQ and Copper Azole. These still contain copper that can leach into soil, particularly in the first few years and in poorly drained areas. Never burn old PT lumber, and check local guidelines for disposal.

Which decking material has the smallest carbon footprint? Wood has a surprisingly strong carbon story. Trees store carbon as they grow, and that carbon stays locked in the wood throughout your deck’s life. A 2025 UNECE life-cycle analysis found softwood lumber delivers a net reduction in atmospheric carbon. Composite manufacturing involves energy-intensive extrusion and carries a net positive carbon footprint, though Trex and others have made meaningful strides in reducing production emissions.

Can I recycle my composite deck boards when I eventually replace them? Not with current technology. The wood fiber and plastic are fused together and can’t be separated for recycling — composite boards go to a landfill at end of life. The industry is working toward next-generation recycling solutions, but none are widely available yet.

How does Ann Arbor Decks dispose of my old deck and deck railing? At Ann Arbor Decks by JMJ, we’re committed to careful and proper disposal of your old deck’s footings, framing, decking, fascia and railing. Depending on the size and scope of your job, we may either A) use our own trailers to collect and dispose of your old deck at an approved landfill, or B) hire a dumpster service to take care of that for you.

What does FSC certification mean for wood decking? The Forest Stewardship Council certifies forests managed for long-term sustainability — with verified replanting practices, habitat protections, and supply chain accountability. Asking specifically for FSC-certified cedar or pine is the most reliable way to ensure your wood came from a responsible source.

We’ll Help You Think It Through

At Ann Arbor Decks, we don’t think there’s a single right answer to the wood-versus-composite question — including when the environment is part of the conversation. We’ve been helping Washtenaw County families build beautiful, lasting outdoor spaces since 2006, and we genuinely enjoy helping homeowners find the material that fits their values, their lifestyle, and their budget.

If environmental impact matters to your decision, bring it up during your consultation. We’ll give you an honest picture of your options so you can make a choice you feel good about for years to come.

Book your free estimate today. No pressure, no obligation — just a real conversation about what matters to you.

Composite vs. Wood Decks: Which Material Is Right for Your Ann Arbor Home?

Highlights from this article:

• Composite decking (like Trex or TimberTech) can cost more up front, but it rewards with low maintenance, strong warranties, and lasting good looks.
• Natural wood (pine, cedar, Ipe) costs less to start and offers authentic beauty, but requires regular staining, painting, and sealing to hold up over time.
• Both can last 25+ years. The difference is in the amount of upkeep along the way.

Skip down to the quick comparison table or the FAQs.

You’ve decided it’s time to build (or rebuild) a deck. Or perhaps you’re considering resurfacing and repairing an existing deck. Now comes the big question: What type of decking should I use? Composite or wood?

The two most popular choices are natural wood (pine, cedar, Ipe) or composite decking (like Trex, TimberTech or Deckorators). Both have genuine strengths and weaknesses. The right choice depends on your up front budget, how you live, how much maintenance you’re willing to do, and the importance natural wood may hold for the style and look of your home. Let’s walk through it together.

What Is Composite Decking? What is PVC decking?

Composite decking is an engineered product, often made from a blend of wood fiber and recycled plastics. PVC decking is extruded poly vinyl chloride (PVC) that is usually capped with a rigid, plastic shell. Trex and TimberTech are probably the best-known brands, but Deckorators is another excellent option we work with at Ann Arbor Decks. These engineered materials resist the things that shorten the life of a natural wood deck: moisture, UV exposure, insects, and everyday wear.

Composite deck boards hold their color and structure through Michigan’s wide seasonal swings, without the need to sand, seal or paint. All they require is simple cleaning with gentle soaps to last for decades.

What Are the Natural Wood Decking Options?

Wood decking comes in several varieties, each with its own character:

• Pressure-Treated Pine is the most budget-friendly and widely available option. It holds up well when properly maintained, making it a practical choice for homeowners who are cost-conscious upfront.
• Cedar is naturally resistant to insects and decay, and it has a beautiful, warm and knotty appearance that many homeowners love. It’s a step up in both price and aesthetics.
• Ipe (pronounced “ee-pay”) is a dense Brazilian hardwood that’s remarkably durable — often lasting 40 years or more with proper care. It’s one of the most beautiful decking materials available, with a rich, dark grain that can be maintained with oiling, or weather to a distinguished silver if left untreated.

One more thing worth considering: your yard’s sun exposure. Wood thrives in sunny, well-ventilated backyards where it can dry out after rain. In shady or consistently damp yards, wood stays wet longer — accelerating mold, warping, and decay. If your deck site doesn’t get much sun, composite (which is effectively waterproof) may be the smarter long-term choice.

Upfront Cost Comparison

The idea that composite always costs significantly more than wood deserves a closer look. Pressure-treated pine remains the most affordable decking option upfront. However, the large composite brands are making great strides when it comes to price competition.

Several composite lines (like Trex Enhance, for example) are priced in line with cedar, often coming in at a similar cost per square foot installed. When you add the fact that composite skips the annual maintenance bills that wood demands, the composite decking value proposition gets even more attractive.

The conclusion: While treated pine wins on upfront cost, composite and mid-grade wood are priced closer than most homeowners expect.

Maintenance

This is where composite really earns its reputation. A Trex or TimberTech deck needs little more than an occasional wash with soap and water. Treated pine and cedar, on the other hand, must be cleaned, sanded, and re-stained or sealed every one to three years to prevent cracking, warping, and graying. Ipe (if not sealed) should be oiled. That’s real time and real money — year after year.

If you’d rather spend your weekends on your deck than working on it, composite is worth serious consideration.

Appearance

Natural wood has a warmth and authenticity that’s hard to replicate. If the organic beauty of real grain and texture matters deeply to you — especially with cedar or Ipe — wood may be your preference. Also, wood can be painted any custom color you choose, unlike composite deck boards, which can’t be painted.

Composite manufacturers have made enormous strides in mimicking natural wood grain, and today’s composite options are genuinely attractive. But they aren’t quite the same as the real thing. Some lines of composite decking feature deeper and more obvious wood grain texture, and some feature smoother grains. Both are popular, but current trends seem to favor the smoother, more neutral colors of composite decking.

Longevity

A well-maintained composite deck can last 25 to 30 years. A quality wood deck, properly cared for, can last just as long — but the properly cared for part is where many homeowners find the gap. In Michigan’s climate, neglected wood decks deteriorate faster than you’d expect.

Warranty Coverage

Composite decking backs its promises with manufacturer warranties. Trex covers fading, staining, and material defects for 25 years, and TimberTech offers comparable protection (30 year limited warranty) on its premium lines. TimberTech’s PVC lines (which are 100% plastic) have 50 year fade and stain warranties.

Natural wood carries no manufacturer’s warranty from Mother Nature.

So Which Should You Choose?

There’s no single right answer — but here’s a simple way to think about it:

• Choose composite if you want a low-maintenance, long-lasting deck that looks great year after year without much effort on your part. It’s an especially smart choice for families with young children, dog owners, or anyone who simply wants to enjoy their deck rather than maintain it.
• Choose wood if you love the natural character of real timber, want to keep upfront costs lower, or are drawn to the distinctive beauty of a material like Ipe or cedar. Just go in with clear eyes about the maintenance commitment — it’s manageable, but it’s real.

Quick Comparison: Composite vs. Wood

Frequently Asked Questions

Is composite decking really worth the higher upfront cost?
For many Ann Arbor homeowners, yes — especially when you factor in the long-term picture. Composite decking eliminates the annual maintenance costs of staining, sealing, and sanding that wood requires. When you add up those recurring expenses over 10 or 15 years, the upfront price difference often narrows considerably. Entry-level composite lines like Trex Enhance are also competitively priced with cedar, so the gap may be smaller than you expect from the start.

How long does a composite deck last compared to a wood deck?
A quality composite deck typically lasts 25 to 30 years. A well-maintained wood deck can last just as long — but the emphasis is on well-maintained. In Michigan’s climate, where freeze-thaw cycles, humidity, and heavy snow loads stress outdoor structures, wood that doesn’t receive consistent care tends to deteriorate fast.

Which wood species holds up best in Michigan’s climate?
Pressure-treated pine is the most affordable choice and performs well with consistent maintenance. Cedar and Ipe both perform well in Michigan’s conditions. Cedar’s natural oils resist insects and moisture, making it a durable mid-range option. Ipe is exceptionally dense and hard — it handles Michigan winters admirably — but it requires occasional oiling to maintain its appearance and prevent surface cracking.

Can I add composite decking to an existing wood frame?
In many cases, yes. Composite decking boards can be installed over an existing pressure-treated frame, provided the frame is structurally sound and the joist spacing meets the composite manufacturer’s specifications. An on-site assessment is the best way to determine whether your existing framing and footings are a good candidate for resurfacing — something we’re happy to evaluate during a free consultation.

Does my backyard’s sun exposure really affect which material I should choose?
More than most homeowners realize. Wood decks in shady, damp yards stay wet (or snowy) much longer, which accelerates mold, warping, and decay. If your deck site doesn’t get much direct sun, composite is likely the smarter long-term investment — it handles moisture far more reliably than natural wood.

We’ll Help You Find Your Answer

At Ann Arbor Decks, we’ve been building decks across Washtenaw County since 2006 — in pressure-treated pine, cedar, Ipe, Trex, TimberTech, Deckorators and more. We’ve seen how each material performs over time in Michigan’s specific climate, and we love helping homeowners match the right material to their lifestyle and budget.

Our on-site consultations are free, no-pressure, and typically take just 45 minutes. We’ll come to your home, listen to your vision, and give you a clear, honest picture of your options — including a detailed written quote.

Ready to start the conversation? Book your free estimate today.

Steps to Building a New Deck in Washtenaw County: What Is the Process?

Highlights from this Article:

• Building a new deck involves several steps, and a good contractor will manage most of them on your behalf.
• Ann Arbor Decks handles the permit application process for every project. You don’t have to navigate municipal offices yourself.
• Permitting timelines vary widely across Washtenaw County municipalities. We factor this into the project schedule from the start.
• If your neighborhood has an HOA, their approval typically needs to come before the municipal permit (something worth knowing early).
• Every Ann Arbor Decks project comes with a timeline at signing so you know what to expect and when.

Skip down to the process overview table or the FAQs.

While most deck builds are not too complicated, the process isn’t just about framing and decking. There’s design work, HOA approval, zoning and permitting, material lead times, inspections, and sequencing to coordinate. Done well, most of that happens in the background and you experience it as a smooth, well-managed project.

This post walks through the process we follow at Ann Arbor Decks for every new build, so you know what to expect before you pick up the phone.

Step 1: Initial Consultation

Every project starts with a free on-site consultation, typically 45 minutes. We come to your home, walk the space with you, and talk through what you’re envisioning (size, materials, railing style, any special features like built-in lighting, a pergola, or an outdoor kitchen area).

We’re also looking at the site itself during this visit: grade, existing landscaping, how the deck will attach to the house, access for equipment and materials, and anything else that affects how the project gets designed and built. A deck that looks simple on paper sometimes has site conditions that require additional planning. We’d rather find those things at the consultation than mid-build.

After the consultation, we put together a written quote with clear, itemized pricing. No vague estimates. You’ll see what you’re paying for.

Step 2: Design and Drawings

Once you decide to move forward, we produce design drawings for your deck in-house. These aren’t rough sketches: they’re the detailed drawings that go to the municipality with your permit application, showing dimensions, framing layout, footing locations and sizes, ledger attachment detail, and railing specifications.

We’ll review your deck design with you first, so you have the opportunity to make adjustments while changes are still easy. This is also when we finalize material selections if you haven’t already.

Step 3: Material Selection

If you haven’t settled on materials by the end of the consultation, the design phase is when we nail that down. The main decisions are decking surface (composite or wood, and which product line), railing system, and any special features. We can walk you through samples and help you think through what suits your home, your yard, and your maintenance preferences.

Material lead times vary. Most standard composite products are readily available, but custom colors, specialty railing systems, or pergola kits may have longer lead times that affect the project schedule. We factor this in when we give you your build timeline.

Step 4: HOA Approval (If Applicable)

If your neighborhood has a homeowners association, their approval typically needs to come before you can apply for a municipal building permit. HOA review processes vary considerably. Some associations turn around approvals in a week or two; others meet only quarterly and require submissions well in advance of their meeting dates.

If you have an HOA, let us know at the consultation. We can provide the drawings and documentation their review board typically requires, but the submission and approval process runs through you as the homeowner. We’ve found it’s worth understanding your HOA’s timeline early, as it can be the longest single variable in the pre-construction phase.

Step 5: Permit Application

Ann Arbor Decks handles the building permit application for every project. You don’t need to visit municipal offices or navigate the application yourself. We take care of it.

If you need Ann Arbor historical permissions, that is something you would need to obtain first. We can assist you in any way possible.

Washtenaw County encompasses many Townships and municipalities, and permitting timelines vary more than most homeowners expect. The City of Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding townships each have their own building departments with their own review processes and workloads. Some turn permits around in a week or two; others can take considerably longer, particularly during the busy spring and summer building season.

A few things that affect permitting in this area:

• Zoning setbacks vary by municipality. How close your deck can be to a property line, easement, or structure depends on local zoning rules. Where possible, we obtain zoning approval before submitting your permit, so there are no setback surprises after the permit is filed.
• Deck drawings must meet Michigan Residential Code requirements. Our in-house drawings are prepared with code compliance in mind, which helps avoid revision requests that delay permit issuance.
• Permit fees vary by municipality and project scope. These are passed through to you at cost, plus our administrative fees. The permit costs will be clearly broken out for you on your contract.

Step 6: Site Preparation

Once the permit is in hand, we can more exactly schedule your project start date. If there’s an existing deck or structure being removed, demolition and debris hauling happens first. We handle all of that, including proper disposal of any pressure-treated lumber, which Michigan requires be taken to an authorized facility rather than placed in regular trash.

We also arrange to have Miss Dig mark utility lines before any digging begins. In Michigan, this means we call MISS DIG (dial 811) to have underground utilities located and flagged. This is a legal requirement before any excavation and a step we take seriously. Hitting an unmarked utility line is dangerous and costly. When flags show up in your lawn, you’ll need to leave them be until we remove them for you.

Step 7: Footings and Framing

This is the structural core of your deck, and it’s where the quality of a build is really established, even though most of it ends up hidden once the decking goes down.

In Michigan, deck footings must extend below the frost line, which is 42 inches. This prevents the freeze-thaw cycle from heaving posts out of the ground over time (a common cause of deck instability on improperly built structures). We pour concrete footings to the required depth and allow appropriate cure time before framing begins. The inspector will come out to approve the size, position and depth of the holes (the ‘footings inspection’).

Framing involves setting posts, installing beams and joists, and attaching the ledger board to the house. If your deck is ledgered (not all decks are attached), this ledger connection is one of the most structurally critical details in any attached deck, and we take care with both the attachment method and the flashing that protects your home’s rim joist from water intrusion. A ledger that allows water behind it is a slow-motion problem that doesn’t show up until significant damage has already occurred.

Depending on your municipality, a framing inspection may be required before decking can be installed. Where required, we schedule and coordinate this inspection.

Step 8: Decking and Railing Installation

With framing complete and inspection passed, decking boards go down. Hidden fastener systems (which leave a clean surface with no visible screw heads) are standard on most of our composite installations. Stair construction, if your deck includes stairs, happens during this phase as well.

Railing installation follows. Whether you’ve chosen cable, glass, aluminum balusters, or a composite system, this is when the deck starts to look finished. We pay attention to detail at this stage (consistent spacing, plumb posts, secure connections) because the railing is both a safety system and one of the most visible design elements of the finished deck.

Step 9: Final Inspection

A final building inspection takes place before the permit is closed out. An inspector from the local building department visits the site and reviews the completed deck against the approved permit drawings and applicable code requirements, like stair riser heights, stair widths, and stair handrail requirements. We schedule and coordinate this inspection for you.

Once final inspection is passed, the permit is closed and the deck is officially yours to enjoy.

The Process at a Glance

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a permit to build a deck in Washtenaw County? In virtually all cases, yes. Any attached deck (and most freestanding decks above a certain size) requires a building permit in Washtenaw County municipalities. Building without a permit creates problems when you sell your home and can result in costly remediation if the unpermitted structure is discovered. Ann Arbor Decks handles the permit application for every project we build.

How long does the whole process take from first call to finished deck? It varies by project, but the permitting phase is usually the longest variable. Once a permit is in hand, the active build time for your specific deck is something we are happy to provide. We also coordinate with you on your expected project start date, staying in good communication as the project approaches.

What if my HOA rejects the design? We work with you to adjust the design to meet HOA requirements and resubmit. Most HOA rejections involve aesthetic concerns (materials, colors, or height) that can be addressed without fundamentally changing the project. The important thing is to start the HOA process early so a revision doesn’t significantly delay the overall timeline.

What is MISS DIG and why does it matter? MISS DIG is Michigan’s underground utility notification service. Before any digging begins, Michigan law requires contractors to contact MISS DIG (by dialing 811) so that underground utilities (gas, electric, water, communications lines) can be located and marked. We handle this as a standard part of every project requiring digging, before excavation starts. MISS DIG won’t cover sprinkler lines, so we do ask that you have your landscaper move those before we start work, if possible.

Why do footings need to go 42 inches deep? Michigan’s frost line (the depth at which the ground freezes in winter) is 42 inches. Footings that don’t extend below the frost line are subject to frost heave, where freezing and thawing soil pushes the footing (and the post above it) up and out of position over time. This leads to decks that become unlevel, unstable, or structurally compromised. Frost-depth footings are required by code and are simply the right way to build in Michigan.

Can I start using my deck before the final inspection? Technically the deck isn’t permitted for occupancy until the final inspection is passed and the permit is closed. We schedule final inspections promptly at project completion. There’s no reason for this step to take long once the work is done.

Ready to Get Started?

If you’re thinking about a new deck, the best first step is a conversation. Our free on-site consultations are no-pressure, take about 30 to 45 minutes, and give you a clear picture of what your project would involve. We then follow up with a written quote and a realistic timeline.

Book your free estimate today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti Township, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.