Spring Deck Cleaning: Tips & Tricks to Make It Easy…er

Highlights from this Article:

• Wood and composite decks have genuinely different cleaning needs. It’s important to use the correct method so you avoid scratches or damage.
• Spring cleaning is also your best opportunity to catch soft spots, rot, and loose fasteners before they become expensive repairs.
• Pressure washing is fine for both deck types at low settings (1,500 PSI or below) with a fan-tip nozzle, but technique matters.
• Wood decks need to be stained or sealed after cleaning. Composite decks don’t. Once clean, they’re ready for the season.
• Shady yards common in Ann Arbor are more prone to mildew on composite surfaces; treat it promptly with a manufacturer-approved cleaner.

Skip down to the FAQs or the Composite Deck Cleaning section.

Every spring, it’s the same story. The snow melts, the days get longer, and you walk out to your back deck for the first time in months, only to find a winter’s worth of grime, leaf debris, and weathering staring back at you. Before you fire up the grill and pull out the patio furniture, your deck deserves a proper cleaning.

The good news: it’s not as hard as it looks. With the right approach and a few hours on a mild spring day, you can have your deck looking renewed and ready for the season ahead. The key is knowing what your deck is made of, because wood and composite decks have genuinely different needs, and using the wrong method on either one can cause more harm than good.

Cleaning a Wood Deck

Wood decks reward careful attention. When you clean yours thoughtfully each spring, you’re not just improving its appearance. You’re extending its life and setting it up for a successful staining or sealing season.

What You’ll Need

• A stiff-bristle brush (avoid wire brushes, which can damage wood fibers)
• A garden hose or pressure washer (more on pressure washing below)
• A dedicated wood deck cleaner or a DIY solution of warm water, dish soap, and white vinegar
• Rubber gloves and eye protection
• A putty knife or paint scraper for stubborn debris

Step-by-Step

Start with a thorough sweep. Before any water touches your deck, sweep away leaves, dirt, and debris, paying special attention to the gaps between boards. Debris trapped in those gaps holds moisture against the wood, which accelerates decay. A putty knife works well for clearing packed-in material.

Inspect as you go. Spring cleaning is the perfect time to look for soft spots, cracked boards, loose fasteners, or signs of rot. Catching these issues early means a simple repair instead of a costly replacement. Press a screwdriver gently into the wood in a few places. If it sinks easily, that board may need attention.

Apply your cleaner. Wet the deck surface with your hose first, then apply your wood deck cleaner according to the product instructions. A quality deck cleaner will break down mildew, algae, and gray weathering. Let it dwell for the recommended time; don’t let it dry on the surface.

Scrub with the grain. Using your stiff-bristle brush, scrub the cleaner into the wood with the grain, not against it. This lifts embedded dirt without roughing up the wood fibers.

Rinse thoroughly. Rinse the entire surface completely, working the water into the gaps between boards. Leftover cleaner residue can interfere with staining or sealing later.

A Word on Pressure Washing Wood

Pressure washing a wood deck is effective but requires care. Keep the pressure at or below 1,500 PSI, use a fan-tip nozzle (never a pinpoint jet), and maintain a consistent distance of at least 12 inches from the surface. Too much pressure can raise the wood grain, leaving the surface fuzzy and actually making it harder to seal properly. When in doubt, a lower setting and a scrub brush will get you there safely.

Don’t Skip the Staining Step

Once your wood deck is clean and fully dry (typically 48 to 72 hours after washing), it’s ready for staining or sealing. This step isn’t optional if you want your deck to hold up through another Michigan year. A quality penetrating stain or sealant protects against moisture, UV damage, and the cycle of freezing and thawing that takes a real toll on untreated wood.

Cleaning a Composite Deck

Here’s the good news composite deck owners have been waiting for: cleaning your deck is significantly easier than cleaning a wood deck. Composite materials don’t absorb moisture, won’t rot, and resist mold and mildew far better than natural wood. That said, composite decks do accumulate dirt, pollen, and organic debris, especially in shady yards, and benefit from a proper spring refresh.

What You’ll Need

• A soft-bristle brush or deck mop
• A garden hose
• A composite-approved deck cleaner (check your manufacturer’s recommendations)
• Mild dish soap for everyday dirt
• Rubber gloves

Step-by-Step

Clear the deck completely. Remove all furniture, planters, and mats before you begin. Rubber-backed mats left on composite decking can trap moisture and promote mildew growth. This is a good time to let the surface fully air out.

Sweep and rinse. Remove loose debris and give the surface a good rinse with your garden hose. For most composite decks, this alone handles a surprising amount of surface grime.

Clean with a composite-safe cleaner. Apply your cleaner and scrub gently with a soft-bristle brush, working with the board’s grain pattern. Composite decking can scratch if you scrub aggressively or use an abrasive pad; a gentle hand and the right brush gets the job done without the risk.

Address mold and mildew promptly. Shady yards, common in many Ann Arbor neighborhoods, can encourage mildew growth on composite surfaces. Most composite manufacturers approve a diluted solution of white vinegar and water, or their own branded cleaner, for mildew treatment. Treat affected areas and rinse thoroughly.

Rinse completely. Finish with a full rinse to clear away cleaner residue, working the water into the board gaps. Allow the deck to dry fully before returning furniture.

Pressure Washing Composite

Most composite manufacturers permit pressure washing at low settings (typically 1,500 PSI or below) using a fan-tip nozzle. Always check your specific product’s guidelines, as some manufacturers void warranties if pressure washing instructions aren’t followed. Keep the nozzle moving and maintain a consistent distance to avoid streaking.

No Staining Required

Unlike wood, composite decking never needs to be stained or sealed. That’s one of its most appealing qualities. Once it’s clean, it’s ready for the season. Simply return your furniture, add a potted plant or two, and you’re done.

A Few Tips That Apply to Both Deck Types

• Clean on a mild, overcast day when possible. Direct sun can dry cleaners too quickly before they’ve done their work.
• Work in manageable sections rather than treating the whole deck at once, especially on larger decks.
• Don’t overlook the railings, posts, and stairs. These surfaces accumulate just as much winter grime as the decking boards themselves.
• Check underneath the deck while you’re at it. Clearing debris from under your deck improves drainage and reduces the conditions that accelerate wood rot in the structural framing.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I clean my deck in Ann Arbor? A thorough spring cleaning is the most important annual maintenance task for any deck. Many homeowners also do a lighter fall cleanup (clearing leaves and debris before winter, to prevent organic material from sitting against the deck surface through the freeze-thaw months. In shady yards where mildew is more likely, a mid-summer rinse can also help composite decks stay looking their best.

Can I use a pressure washer on my composite deck? Most composite manufacturers permit pressure washing at low settings (typically 1,500 PSI or below) using a fan-tip nozzle. Always check your specific product’s care guidelines before you start, since some manufacturers include pressure washing instructions in their warranty terms. Keep the nozzle moving and maintain a consistent distance to avoid streaking or surface damage.

What’s the best cleaner for a wood deck? Purpose-made wood deck cleaners are your safest bet; they’re formulated to break down mildew, algae, and gray weathering without damaging wood fibers. For light everyday cleaning, a solution of warm water, dish soap, and white vinegar works well. Avoid bleach-based cleaners, which can strip natural wood color and degrade wood fibers over time with repeated use.

How long do I need to wait after cleaning my wood deck before staining or sealing it? Generally 48 to 72 hours of dry weather after washing. The wood needs to be fully dry before stain or sealer can penetrate properly. Applying it too soon traps moisture in the wood, which can lead to peeling and uneven finish. Check the weather forecast before you start your cleaning project and plan accordingly.

My deck has some soft spots: is that a cleaning problem or something more serious? More serious, unfortunately. Soft spots in deck boards are a sign of wood rot, which no amount of cleaning can reverse. Spring is actually the ideal time to catch these issues before the season begins. If you find soft spots, loose boards, or fasteners that have worked their way up, it’s worth having a professional take a look before the problem spreads to the structural framing underneath.

Does cleaning a composite deck void the warranty? Not if you follow the manufacturer’s care guidelines. Most composite warranties actually require regular cleaning as a condition of coverage. Neglecting the deck can void protection, not the cleaning itself. Using harsh chemicals, abrasive scrubbers, or a pressure washer above the recommended PSI are the things most likely to create warranty issues. When in doubt, stick to manufacturer-approved cleaners and methods.

When Cleaning Isn’t Enough

Sometimes spring reveals more than just a dirty deck. It reveals a deck that needs attention beyond what a good scrubbing can fix. Soft spots, significant graying, loose or damaged boards, and deteriorating railings are all signs that it’s time for a professional assessment.

At Ann Arbor Decks, we’re happy to take a look. We’ve been helping Washtenaw County homeowners maintain, repair, and rebuild their outdoor spaces since 2006, and we love helping families get the most out of what they already have, not just what they might build next.

If your spring cleaning uncovers something you’re not sure about, reach out for a free consultation. Sometimes a small repair today saves a major replacement down the road.

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Carpenter Bees Damaging Your Old Wood Deck or Gazebo? Here Are Some Solutions.

Highlights from this Article:

• Carpenter bee damage to cedar decks, railings, posts, and gazebos is increasingly common across Washtenaw County. Our crew sees it on job sites year-round.
• Unsealed, unpainted, or weathered cedar is the most vulnerable. Properly finished wood is significantly more resistant.
• Damage often goes unaddressed for months or years. By which point the structural impact can be serious.
• Composite decking is immune to carpenter bees. For homeowners who’ve dealt with repeated damage, resurfacing with composite is often the right long-term answer.

Skip down to the wood vs. composite comparison or the FAQs.

Our owner, Josiah Shurtliff, has been building decks in the Ann Arbor area since 2006. Over the past several years, he and our crew have noticed a pattern that’s hard to ignore. Carpenter bee damage to wood decks, railings, posts, and backyard structures is showing up more frequently, and by the time most homeowners call us, it’s been going on longer than they realized.

Here’s how to recognize carpenter bee damage, why cedar is particularly vulnerable, what it means for your deck structurally, and what your options are when you find damage.

What Carpenter Bees Actually Do

Carpenter bees are large, heavy-bodied bees that look similar to bumblebees. Unlike bumblebees, they don’t live in colonies. The females bore into wood to create individual nesting galleries. The entry hole is almost perfectly round, about half an inch in diameter (the size of a small coin, and typically appears on the underside or end grain of a board where it’s less exposed to weather.

Once inside, the bee turns and tunnels with the grain of the wood, sometimes extending several feet. That tunnel becomes a nesting chamber. The momma bee lays eggs, seals the chamber, and the next generation emerges the following spring, often returning to the same structure to bore new tunnels nearby. Year after year, the damage compounds.

There’s a secondary damage problem that many homeowners don’t know about: woodpeckers. Once carpenter bee larvae are established inside a piece of wood, woodpeckers will hammer into it to get at them. A post or railing that a carpenter bee has been working on for a season or two can end up looking like it lost a fight with a power drill (holes, splits, and splintered wood that goes well beyond the original bee entry points).

Why Cedar Is So Vulnerable

Cedar is a beautiful decking material and naturally rot-resistant, but it has a well-known vulnerability to carpenter bees: when it’s left bare, weathered, or inadequately finished, it’s one of their preferred targets. Carpenter bees strongly prefer untreated, unpainted, unfinished softwood, and cedar that hasn’t been properly sealed, stained, or painted is essentially an open invitation.

This is something Josiah and our crew see repeatedly on assessments. A homeowner puts in a cedar deck, enjoys it for a season or two, and either skips the initial finishing or lets it lapse. Within a few years, the railings and posts are dotted with entry holes. By the time we’re called out, the damage has often spread well beyond the surface boards into the posts and structural framing, components that are harder and more expensive to replace than decking or fascia.

Pressure-treated pine is less attractive to carpenter bees due to the chemical treatment, but it’s not entirely immune, particularly on older decks where the treatment has weathered and the wood has dried out and cracked.

Why Homeowners Often Don’t Act Quickly

We get carpenter bee damage calls year-round, but the actual damage happens in spring when female bees are most active. The reason we hear from homeowners in every season is that most people don’t act on it right away.

Part of that is the nature of the damage itself. The entry holes are small and sometimes in locations that aren’t immediately obvious (on the underside of a rail cap, at the base of a post, on the fascia boards that frame the deck’s edge). A homeowner might notice a hole or two, assume it’s minor, and intend to deal with it later. Meanwhile the bees are extending their tunnels, laying eggs, and the woodpeckers are following.

By the time “later” arrives, what might have been a resurfacing project has become a structural repair or a full replacement. We’re not saying this to alarm anyone. We’re saying it because catching damage early genuinely matters, and we’d rather see people act on it sooner than wait.

What We Find on Assessments

When we’re called out for a consultation, here’s what we’re looking at:

• Deck boards and railings: Entry holes, surface damage, and softness or sponginess in the wood around affected areas.
• Posts: Posts are a particular concern because they’re structural. A post that’s been extensively tunneled can lose significant load-bearing capacity. We probe posts carefully, especially at the base and cap where bees tend to concentrate.
• Ledger board and framing: If bees have been active long enough, we check whether the damage has reached the framing. This is where things get more serious structurally.
• Gazebos and pergolas: We’re seeing a lot of carpenter bee damage on gazebos and wood pergolas, particularly on exposed rafter tails, posts, and any bare cedar or pine components. These structures often get less maintenance attention than the main deck.

Your Options When You Find Damage

Full Resurfacing with Composite

For homeowners who have dealt with significant carpenter bee damage, or who simply don’t want to deal with the ongoing maintenance and vulnerability of wood, resurfacing with composite decking is the most permanent solution. Composite boards are made from wood fiber and plastic; carpenter bees have no interest in boring into them. A composite deck surface, composite or PVC railings, and properly treated or composite post systems eliminate the carpenter bee problem for the life of the deck.

We’ve done a number of these projects in Washtenaw County where the trigger was exactly this: a cedar deck with recurring carpenter bee damage, a homeowner who’s tired of fighting it, and a decision to resurface with composite once and not think about it again. It’s a sound investment, particularly when the framing is still in good shape and a full replacement isn’t necessary.

Repair and Refinish the Existing Wood

Where the damage is caught early and the structural framing is sound, homeowners can replace damaged boards, repair or replace affected posts, fill existing holes, and refinish the wood with a quality paint or solid stain. Properly finished cedar (well-sealed and maintained) is significantly more resistant to carpenter bees than bare or weathered wood.

This is a viable path, but it comes with an honest caveat: it requires follow-through on maintenance. If the deck goes bare again, the bees will be back. We’ll tell you this plainly when we give you your options.

Wood vs. Composite: Carpenter Bee Vulnerability at a Glance

	Bare or Weathered Cedar	Properly Finished Cedar	Composite Decking
Carpenter bee risk	High	Moderate (requires upkeep)	None
Maintenance required	Immediate	Regular sealing and staining	Minimal
Structural risk if ignored	Significant over time	Lower with proper maintenance	Not applicable
Long-term solution	No	Only with consistent upkeep	Yes

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I have carpenter bee damage? Look for round entry holes approximately half an inch in diameter, typically on the underside of horizontal boards, the tops of rail caps, or the faces of posts. You may also see coarse sawdust (called frass) below entry points, or yellow staining from bee waste near holes. If woodpeckers have been active on your deck or pergola, that’s another strong indicator. They’re usually following the bees.

Are carpenter bees dangerous to people? Generally no. Male carpenter bees can be territorial and will hover aggressively near their nesting sites, but they have no stinger. Female carpenter bees do have stingers but are docile and rarely sting unless directly handled. The danger is to your wood structures, not to you.

Can I treat the existing holes myself? You can fill holes with wood filler or steel wool and caulk as a temporary measure, and insecticide dust applied to active holes in spring can kill larvae before they emerge. But DIY treatment addresses the symptom, not the underlying vulnerability. Bare, unfinished wood will attract new bees the following season. If the damage is more than superficial, a professional assessment is worth it.

Does composite decking really eliminate the problem? For the deck surface and composite or PVC railing components, yes. Carpenter bees bore into wood fiber; they have no interest in composite or PVC materials. If your post system uses wood posts (even on a composite deck), those should be addressed. We can discuss post options during a consultation.

How quickly does carpenter bee damage become a structural problem? It depends on the scope of activity and how long it’s been going on. A single season of moderate activity on a few boards is usually a surface issue. Several seasons of heavy activity on posts or framing members can meaningfully compromise structural integrity. This is why we encourage homeowners not to wait once they notice it.

Is this a problem specific to the Ann Arbor area? Carpenter bees are common throughout the eastern United States, but our crew has noticed an uptick in damage calls across Washtenaw County over the past several years. Whether that reflects a growing bee population, more wood decks reaching the age where unsealed wood becomes attractive, or simply greater awareness, we can’t say for certain. What we can say is that it’s a real and growing part of what we’re seeing on assessments in this area.

Think You Might Have Carpenter Bee Damage?

If you’ve noticed holes in your deck railings, posts, or backyard structures, it’s worth having someone take a look before the next spring season brings another round of activity. Our free on-site assessments take about 30 to 45 minutes, and we’ll give you a clear, honest picture of what we find along with your options.

Book your free assessment today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.

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Deck Resurfacing vs. Replacement: Which Is Right for Your Ann Arbor Area Home?

Highlights from this Article:

• Resurfacing replaces the deck boards and railing on an existing frame. While most customers resurface with composite (to avoid wood maintenance), it's possible to resurface with wood as well.
• Resurfacing is good option only if: A) the underlying structure is still sound, and B) the framing will last for the lifespan of the new decking you're putting onto it.
• Putting new decking and/or railing on a sound existing deck frame will give you the look a brand-new deck.
• Full deck replacement makes more sense when there's significant structural damage, post rot, or widespread joist failure. It's also the best choice if you want to change the deck layout in a significant way.
• Rebuilding the deck is the way to go when the cost of rebuilding barely differs from the cost of resurfacing. However, resurfacing is usually less expensive.
• Ann Arbor Decks evaluates every deck individually. Where repair is a realistic option, we present both choices. Where it isn't, we'll tell you honestly.

---

"Should I rebuild or resurface (reskin) my deck?"

It's one of the most common questions we hear at Ann Arbor Decks — and the honest answer is that it depends. There's no universal rule that applies to every deck in every backyard. What we can do is walk you through how we think about the decision, what we look for during an assessment, and what your realistic options are likely to be.

What Is Deck Resurfacing?

Resurfacing ("re-decking" or "reskinning") means removing and replacing the deck boards — and often the railing — while keeping the existing structural frame in place: the posts, beams, joists, and footings that hold everything up. If your frame is solid, resurfacing can give your outdoor space an essentially new look and feel at a meaningfully lower cost than a full teardown and rebuild. During a resurfacing project, we can do smaller repairs and joist replacements, and not infrequently we may replace a footing or even a beam. Another thing worth knowing upfront: if your deck has stairs, we typically rebuild them rather than resurface them.

At Ann Arbor Decks, resurfacing can take a few different forms depending on your situation.

• Composite overlay on an existing wood frame: We remove your old decking and replace it with Trex or TimberTech composite or PVC, giving you a low-maintenance surface on a frame you don't have to replace. This is one of our most popular resurfacing approaches for decks whose frames are still in good shape.
• Wood-on-wood resurfacing: In cases where the substructure isn't too old and the homeowner prefers to stay with natural wood, we can resurface with new cedar or pressure-treated boards.

What Is Full Deck Replacement?

Full replacement means exactly what it sounds like: the existing deck comes down completely — decking, railing, framing, posts and footings — and a new deck is built from below the ground up. It's often (but not always) a larger investment than resurfacing, but it's the right call when the existing structure is no longer safe, or when the cost of repairing the frame approaches or exceeds the cost of starting fresh.

When we do a full replacement, we handle all demolition and disposal. Michigan requires that pressure-treated lumber be disposed of at an authorized facility — not burned or placed in regular trash — and we handle that responsibly on every job.

How We Assess Your Deck

During a free on-site consultation, our team walks your deck carefully — not just looking at the surface, but probing the structure underneath. Here's what we're evaluating:

Signs That Point Toward Resurfacing

• Deck boards that are worn, cracked, splintered, or grayed — but structurally intact underneath
• Railing that's cosmetically tired but attached to sound posts
• A frame that's in good structural condition — generally under 15 years for a low-to-the-ground deck, potentially up to 20 to 25 years for an elevated deck with good airflow underneath
• A deck that was originally well-built with quality materials

Signs That Point Toward Full Replacement

• Post rot at ground level: When posts have rotted at or below the surface, the structural integrity of the deck is usually compromised. If the rot is isolated to one or two posts and footings while the rest of the frame is sound, we can replace those posts and footings as part of the resurfacing project. Widespread post rot, however, points toward full replacement.
• Widespread joist damage: Soft, spongy, or visibly rotted joists mean the frame can't safely support new decking. Replacing a few joists is sometimes feasible; replacing most of them usually isn't cost-effective.
• Soft or rotted decking throughout: When the deterioration is widespread rather than isolated, replacement is almost always the more sensible path.
• Age — but with an important nuance: For a deck that sits close to the ground where moisture accumulates, we start looking very carefully at the framing once it reaches 15 to 20 years. For an elevated deck with good airflow underneath — which dries out more effectively after rain — a well-maintained frame may be a viable resurfacing candidate up to 20 to 25 years. Either way, age is a flag to assess closely, not an automatic verdict.

Our Honest Policy

At Ann Arbor Decks, we don't have a financial interest in steering you toward replacement when resurfacing is a realistic option — or toward resurfacing when your deck genuinely needs to come down. Our approach is straightforward:

• If we assess your deck and believe a full rebuild is the only responsible recommendation, we'll tell you that and quote accordingly.
• If we believe resurfacing is a viable option, we'll present both choices — resurfacing and full replacement — with clear pricing for each, and let you decide what makes sense for your home and budget.

We've been doing this since 2006. Our reputation in Washtenaw County is built on honest assessments and work that holds up over time, not on upselling jobs that don't need to be bigger than they are.

A Quick Guide: Resurfacing or Replacement?

	Resurfacing	Full Replacement
Frame condition	Sound — no significant rot or damage	Compromised — rot, soft spots, or widespread damage
Deck age	Under 15–20 years (elevated decks with good airflow may qualify up to 20–25 years)	15–20+ years for low-to-ground decks; 20–25+ years for elevated decks
Post condition	Solid at ground level, or isolated posts replaceable	Widespread rot at or below grade
Joist condition	Firm and structurally sound	Soft, spongy, or widespread rot
Ledger board	Sound, or repairable in isolation	Severely damaged or causing moisture intrusion
Relative cost	Lower	Higher — but sometimes the only right answer
Result	New surface, existing structure	Entirely new deck, built to current standards

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I put composite decking over my existing wood deck boards? Not directly on top — the old boards need to come off first. But once we remove the existing decking, we can install composite boards on your existing frame, provided the frame passes our structural assessment. Many homeowners are pleasantly surprised to find their framing is in better shape than the worn surface suggested.

How long does a resurfaced deck last? That depends largely on what you resurface with. A composite surface installed on a sound frame will last 25 to 30 years with minimal maintenance. A wood resurfacing will last 15 to 25+ years with consistent care. In either case, the longevity of the resurfaced deck is ultimately tied to the health of the frame underneath — which is exactly why we assess it carefully before recommending resurfacing.

My deck is only 10 years old — do I really need to replace it? Age alone doesn't determine the answer. A 10-year-old deck that was poorly built or inadequately maintained may need replacement, while a 20-year-old deck with quality framing and consistent care might be an excellent resurfacing candidate. The only way to know for certain is an on-site assessment.

What happens to my old deck after you demolish it? We handle all demolition debris responsibly. Michigan requires that pressure-treated lumber be disposed of at an authorized facility — it cannot be burned or placed in household trash. Depending on the size of your project, we'll either use our own trailers to haul the material to an approved disposal site, or arrange for a dumpster service to handle it.

Is resurfacing always cheaper than replacing? Usually — but not always. When the framing requires significant repair alongside a new surface, the combined cost can approach or exceed a full replacement. That's one of the reasons we evaluate the full picture before quoting. We want you making a decision based on accurate numbers, not a low estimate that grows once we get into the work.

Let's Take a Look

If your deck is showing its age, the best first step is an honest, professional assessment. At Ann Arbor Decks, our on-site consultations are free, no-pressure, and typically take just 30 to 45 minutes. We'll walk your deck with you, tell you what we see, and give you a clear picture of your options — including a detailed written quote for whichever path makes sense.

Book your free estimate today. No pressure, no obligation — just a straightforward conversation about what your deck actually needs.

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Environmental Sustainability: What’s Better, Wood or Composite Decking?

Highlights from this article:

• Both natural wood decking and composite decking carry trade-offs, so the most environmentally responsible choice depends on which one you value the most.
• Composite decking uses recycled materials (waste wood and used plastics), and it lasts longer. On the flip side, it takes more energy to produce, and it cannot itself be recycled.
• Wood decking is long-lasting, biodegradable, carbon-storing, and renewable — but most types require chemical stains or paints for maintenance and longevity.
• Pressure-treated pine, like composite decking, must be disposed of in a landfill at the end of its usable life.

Skip down to the quick comparison table or the FAQs.

You’ve decided to build a deck. You care about the environment. Now comes a question that’s more complicated than it looks: Which decking material is actually better for the planet?

Both wood and composite decking have genuine environmental strengths, and both carry real environmental costs. What we can do is lay out the trade-offs honestly, so you can make the choice that best reflects your values.

Wood Decking: Natural, Renewable — and Not Without Trade-Offs

Cedar: The Environmentally Friendlier Wood Option

Cedar is one of the most ecologically responsible choices in the wood decking category. Cedar trees grow relatively quickly, and responsible forestry practices — including certification from the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) — ensure that harvested trees are replanted, often at rates of 10 to 20 saplings per tree logged. The FSC-certified cedar used by Ann Arbor Decks means you’re supporting forests actively managed for long-term sustainability.

Cedar also brings a meaningful end-of-life advantage: it biodegrades. When a cedar deck eventually reaches the end of its useful life, it returns to the earth (a fate composite decking cannot share).

On the carbon side, wood has a compelling story. Trees absorb carbon dioxide as they grow, and that carbon stays locked in the wood throughout the life of your deck. A 2025 life-cycle analysis found that softwood lumber actually has a negative carbon impact, meaning that its use in construction reduces atmospheric carbon rather than adding to it.

The honest downside: Cedar still requires logging, transportation, and periodic maintenance — including staining and sealing products that carry their own chemical footprint.

Pressure-Treated Pine: The Chemical Question

Pressure-treated ("PT") pine’s environmental story has improved significantly over the past two decades. Until 2004 (two years before Ann Arbor Decks had our start), virtually all residential PT lumber was treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) — a preservative containing arsenic. Happily, the EPA and the lumber industry phased out CCA for residential use, replacing it with safer alternatives like Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) and Copper Azole.

Today’s PT pine is meaningfully better, especially when disposed of properly. The larger environmental case for PT pine is its longevity. The same chemicals that raise concern are what allow a fast-growing, affordable species to serve as a long-lasting building material, reducing how many trees need to be harvested over time.

The honest downside: Disposing of old PT lumber requires care. Never burn it, as the smoke can release toxic compounds. The State of Michigan requires us to dispose of PT pine at an authorized location. You can rest assured that if we’re demolishing your existing deck to rebuild it, we will ethically and legally dispose of the waste substructure, decking, and railing.

Composite and PVC Decking: Recycled Content, Petroleum Origins

The Recycled Content Argument

The environmental case for composite decking starts with what it’s made of. TimberTech boards incorporate 60% to 85% recycled materials. Trex manufactures its decking from up to 95% recycled and reclaimed content — sawdust, reclaimed wood fiber, and recycled polyethylene film.

Trex has evolved its plastic sourcing over time. The company now relies heavily on clear polyethylene shrink wrap (commercial pallet wrapping) rather than the consumer plastics like grocery bags that it originally used when it pioneered its deck product. It’s a smart shift: pallet wrap is generated in enormous volumes and has very limited recycling options in conventional waste streams. Trex alone diverts more than one billion pounds of plastic film from landfills every year.

Composite decking’s low-maintenance nature also has environmental implications. It never needs staining, sealing, or chemical treatments — a meaningful reduction in the maintenance chemicals most wood decks require over a 25-year lifespan.

The End-of-Life Problem

The wood fiber and plastic components in composite decking are currently inseparable, making the material impossible to recycle with today’s technology. Unlike wood decking, composite does not biodegrade. So, when a composite deck on a treated pine frame ends its life, both the treated pine and the composite elements must be disposed of in a landfill together.

How the Two Compare: An Environmental Lens

	Cedar	Pressure-Treated Pine	Composite (Trex/TimberTech)	PVC Decking
Renewable Resource	Yes (if FSC-certified)	Yes (fast-growing species)	No	No
Recycled Content	No	No	Up to 95%	Varies
Carbon Storage	Yes — stores carbon throughout its life	Yes	No net benefit	No net benefit
Chemical Concerns	Low (natural oils)	Moderate (copper leaching)	Low in use	Higher (PVC production)
Biodegradable	Yes	Yes (slowly)	No	No
Recyclable at End of Life	Yes (can be repurposed or composted)	With care (no burning)	No — landfill only	No — landfill only
Maintenance Chemicals	Requires periodic staining/sealing	Requires periodic sealing	None	None
Longevity	25+ years with care	15–25 years with care	25–30 years	25–30 years

Which Choice Is Right for the Environmentally Conscious Homeowner: Cedar, PT Pine or Composite?

Choose FSC-certified cedar if renewable resources, carbon storage, and end-of-life biodegradability matter most. Cedar from a responsibly managed forest grows back, stores carbon while it lives, and returns to the earth when it’s done. The trade-off is ongoing maintenance and a shorter lifespan without consistent care.

Choose composite if diverting plastic from landfills and eliminating long-term maintenance chemicals are your priorities. Composite makes a real and tangible environmental contribution — the trade-off is petroleum origins and a landfill destination at end of life.

Choose pressure-treated pine if affordability and renewable sourcing are your primary concerns and you’re committed to responsible maintenance and disposal. Today’s PT pine is a far cry from the arsenic-treated lumber of previous decades — but be mindful of its chemical footprint near water.

A Note on Certification

Look for the FSC logo on wood products. It guarantees the wood came from a forest managed for long-term sustainability — with replanting requirements, habitat protections, and supply chain accountability. Not all cedar or pine on the market meets this standard, but it’s available if you ask for it.

What the FSC Labels Mean | Forest Stewardship Council

For composite products, Trex and TimberTech both publish environmental data and third-party audit results worth reviewing if you want to dig deeper into a manufacturer’s claims.

Trex® Environmental Sustainability

Sustainability – TimberTech

Frequently Asked Questions

Is composite decking environmentally friendly? It’s genuinely complicated. Composite’s use of recycled materials meaningfully diverts plastic and wood waste from landfills — a real benefit. However, the plastic originates as a petroleum byproduct, and composite boards can’t be recycled at end of life. Whether that trade-off feels "green" depends on which environmental values you weigh most heavily.

Is pressure-treated pine safe for the environment today? Much safer than it used to be. The arsenic-based CCA treatment standard until 2004 has been replaced with less toxic alternatives like ACQ and Copper Azole. These still contain copper that can leach into soil, particularly in the first few years and in poorly drained areas. Never burn old PT lumber, and check local guidelines for disposal.

Which decking material has the smallest carbon footprint? Wood has a surprisingly strong carbon story. Trees store carbon as they grow, and that carbon stays locked in the wood throughout your deck’s life. A 2025 UNECE life-cycle analysis found softwood lumber delivers a net reduction in atmospheric carbon. Composite manufacturing involves energy-intensive extrusion and carries a net positive carbon footprint, though Trex and others have made meaningful strides in reducing production emissions.

Can I recycle my composite deck boards when I eventually replace them? Not with current technology. The wood fiber and plastic are fused together and can’t be separated for recycling — composite boards go to a landfill at end of life. The industry is working toward next-generation recycling solutions, but none are widely available yet.

How does Ann Arbor Decks dispose of my old deck and deck railing? At Ann Arbor Decks by JMJ, we’re committed to careful and proper disposal of your old deck’s footings, framing, decking, fascia and railing. Depending on the size and scope of your job, we may either A) use our own trailers to collect and dispose of your old deck at an approved landfill, or B) hire a dumpster service to take care of that for you.

What does FSC certification mean for wood decking? The Forest Stewardship Council certifies forests managed for long-term sustainability — with verified replanting practices, habitat protections, and supply chain accountability. Asking specifically for FSC-certified cedar or pine is the most reliable way to ensure your wood came from a responsible source.

We’ll Help You Think It Through

At Ann Arbor Decks, we don’t think there’s a single right answer to the wood-versus-composite question — including when the environment is part of the conversation. We’ve been helping Washtenaw County families build beautiful, lasting outdoor spaces since 2006, and we genuinely enjoy helping homeowners find the material that fits their values, their lifestyle, and their budget.

If environmental impact matters to your decision, bring it up during your consultation. We’ll give you an honest picture of your options so you can make a choice you feel good about for years to come.

Book your free estimate today. No pressure, no obligation — just a real conversation about what matters to you.

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Composite vs. Wood Decks: Which Material Is Right for Your Ann Arbor Home?

Highlights from this article:

• Composite decking (like Trex or TimberTech) can cost more up front, but it rewards with low maintenance, strong warranties, and lasting good looks.
• Natural wood (pine, cedar, Ipe) costs less to start and offers authentic beauty, but requires regular staining, painting, and sealing to hold up over time.
• Both can last 25+ years. The difference is in the amount of upkeep along the way.

Skip down to the quick comparison table or the FAQs.

You’ve decided it’s time to build (or rebuild) a deck. Or perhaps you’re considering resurfacing and repairing an existing deck. Now comes the big question: What type of decking should I use? Composite or wood?

The two most popular choices are natural wood (pine, cedar, Ipe) or composite decking (like Trex, TimberTech or Deckorators). Both have genuine strengths and weaknesses. The right choice depends on your up front budget, how you live, how much maintenance you’re willing to do, and the importance natural wood may hold for the style and look of your home. Let’s walk through it together.

What Is Composite Decking? What is PVC decking?

Composite decking is an engineered product, often made from a blend of wood fiber and recycled plastics. PVC decking is extruded poly vinyl chloride (PVC) that is usually capped with a rigid, plastic shell. Trex and TimberTech are probably the best-known brands, but Deckorators is another excellent option we work with at Ann Arbor Decks. These engineered materials resist the things that shorten the life of a natural wood deck: moisture, UV exposure, insects, and everyday wear.

Composite deck boards hold their color and structure through Michigan’s wide seasonal swings, without the need to sand, seal or paint. All they require is simple cleaning with gentle soaps to last for decades.

What Are the Natural Wood Decking Options?

Wood decking comes in several varieties, each with its own character:

• Pressure-Treated Pine is the most budget-friendly and widely available option. It holds up well when properly maintained, making it a practical choice for homeowners who are cost-conscious upfront.
• Cedar is naturally resistant to insects and decay, and it has a beautiful, warm and knotty appearance that many homeowners love. It’s a step up in both price and aesthetics.
• Ipe (pronounced “ee-pay”) is a dense Brazilian hardwood that’s remarkably durable — often lasting 40 years or more with proper care. It’s one of the most beautiful decking materials available, with a rich, dark grain that can be maintained with oiling, or weather to a distinguished silver if left untreated.

One more thing worth considering: your yard’s sun exposure. Wood thrives in sunny, well-ventilated backyards where it can dry out after rain. In shady or consistently damp yards, wood stays wet longer — accelerating mold, warping, and decay. If your deck site doesn’t get much sun, composite (which is effectively waterproof) may be the smarter long-term choice.

Upfront Cost Comparison

The idea that composite always costs significantly more than wood deserves a closer look. Pressure-treated pine remains the most affordable decking option upfront. However, the large composite brands are making great strides when it comes to price competition.

Several composite lines (like Trex Enhance, for example) are priced in line with cedar, often coming in at a similar cost per square foot installed. When you add the fact that composite skips the annual maintenance bills that wood demands, the composite decking value proposition gets even more attractive.

The conclusion: While treated pine wins on upfront cost, composite and mid-grade wood are priced closer than most homeowners expect.

Maintenance

This is where composite really earns its reputation. A Trex or TimberTech deck needs little more than an occasional wash with soap and water. Treated pine and cedar, on the other hand, must be cleaned, sanded, and re-stained or sealed every one to three years to prevent cracking, warping, and graying. Ipe (if not sealed) should be oiled. That’s real time and real money — year after year.

If you’d rather spend your weekends on your deck than working on it, composite is worth serious consideration.

Appearance

Natural wood has a warmth and authenticity that’s hard to replicate. If the organic beauty of real grain and texture matters deeply to you — especially with cedar or Ipe — wood may be your preference. Also, wood can be painted any custom color you choose, unlike composite deck boards, which can’t be painted.

Composite manufacturers have made enormous strides in mimicking natural wood grain, and today’s composite options are genuinely attractive. But they aren’t quite the same as the real thing. Some lines of composite decking feature deeper and more obvious wood grain texture, and some feature smoother grains. Both are popular, but current trends seem to favor the smoother, more neutral colors of composite decking.

Longevity

A well-maintained composite deck can last 25 to 30 years. A quality wood deck, properly cared for, can last just as long — but the properly cared for part is where many homeowners find the gap. In Michigan’s climate, neglected wood decks deteriorate faster than you’d expect.

Warranty Coverage

Composite decking backs its promises with manufacturer warranties. Trex covers fading, staining, and material defects for 25 years, and TimberTech offers comparable protection (30 year limited warranty) on its premium lines. TimberTech’s PVC lines (which are 100% plastic) have 50 year fade and stain warranties.

Natural wood carries no manufacturer’s warranty from Mother Nature.

So Which Should You Choose?

There’s no single right answer — but here’s a simple way to think about it:

• Choose composite if you want a low-maintenance, long-lasting deck that looks great year after year without much effort on your part. It’s an especially smart choice for families with young children, dog owners, or anyone who simply wants to enjoy their deck rather than maintain it.
• Choose wood if you love the natural character of real timber, want to keep upfront costs lower, or are drawn to the distinctive beauty of a material like Ipe or cedar. Just go in with clear eyes about the maintenance commitment — it’s manageable, but it’s real.

Quick Comparison: Composite vs. Wood

	Composite (Trex / TimberTech)	Natural Wood (Pine, Cedar, Ipe)
Upfront Cost	Higher	Lower
Maintenance	Very low — occasional cleaning only	Regular staining/sealing required every 1–3 years
Appearance	Realistic wood look; consistent color	Authentic natural grain and warmth; can be painted any color
Longevity	25–30 years	25+ years with proper care (Ipe 40+ years)
Warranty	25-year manufacturer warranty (varies by brand/line)	None
Splinter Risk	None	Possible over time without maintenance
Best For	Low-effort ownership; families; Michigan weather resilience	Natural aesthetics; lower upfront budget

Frequently Asked Questions

Is composite decking really worth the higher upfront cost?
For many Ann Arbor homeowners, yes — especially when you factor in the long-term picture. Composite decking eliminates the annual maintenance costs of staining, sealing, and sanding that wood requires. When you add up those recurring expenses over 10 or 15 years, the upfront price difference often narrows considerably. Entry-level composite lines like Trex Enhance are also competitively priced with cedar, so the gap may be smaller than you expect from the start.

How long does a composite deck last compared to a wood deck?
A quality composite deck typically lasts 25 to 30 years. A well-maintained wood deck can last just as long — but the emphasis is on well-maintained. In Michigan’s climate, where freeze-thaw cycles, humidity, and heavy snow loads stress outdoor structures, wood that doesn’t receive consistent care tends to deteriorate fast.

Which wood species holds up best in Michigan’s climate?
Pressure-treated pine is the most affordable choice and performs well with consistent maintenance. Cedar and Ipe both perform well in Michigan’s conditions. Cedar’s natural oils resist insects and moisture, making it a durable mid-range option. Ipe is exceptionally dense and hard — it handles Michigan winters admirably — but it requires occasional oiling to maintain its appearance and prevent surface cracking.

Can I add composite decking to an existing wood frame?
In many cases, yes. Composite decking boards can be installed over an existing pressure-treated frame, provided the frame is structurally sound and the joist spacing meets the composite manufacturer’s specifications. An on-site assessment is the best way to determine whether your existing framing and footings are a good candidate for resurfacing — something we’re happy to evaluate during a free consultation.

Does my backyard’s sun exposure really affect which material I should choose?
More than most homeowners realize. Wood decks in shady, damp yards stay wet (or snowy) much longer, which accelerates mold, warping, and decay. If your deck site doesn’t get much direct sun, composite is likely the smarter long-term investment — it handles moisture far more reliably than natural wood.

We’ll Help You Find Your Answer

At Ann Arbor Decks, we’ve been building decks across Washtenaw County since 2006 — in pressure-treated pine, cedar, Ipe, Trex, TimberTech, Deckorators and more. We’ve seen how each material performs over time in Michigan’s specific climate, and we love helping homeowners match the right material to their lifestyle and budget.

Our on-site consultations are free, no-pressure, and typically take just 45 minutes. We’ll come to your home, listen to your vision, and give you a clear, honest picture of your options — including a detailed written quote.

Ready to start the conversation? Book your free estimate today.

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Steps to Building a New Deck in Washtenaw County: What Is the Process?

Highlights from this Article:

• Building a new deck involves several steps, and a good contractor will manage most of them on your behalf.
• Ann Arbor Decks handles the permit application process for every project. You don’t have to navigate municipal offices yourself.
• Permitting timelines vary widely across Washtenaw County municipalities. We factor this into the project schedule from the start.
• If your neighborhood has an HOA, their approval typically needs to come before the municipal permit (something worth knowing early).
• Every Ann Arbor Decks project comes with a written timeline at signing so you know what to expect and when.

Skip down to the process overview table or the FAQs.

While most deck builds are not too complicated, the process isn’t just about framing and decking. There’s design work, HOA approval, zoning and permitting, material lead times, inspections, and sequencing to coordinate. Done well, most of that happens in the background and you experience it as a smooth, well-managed project.

This post walks through the process we follow at Ann Arbor Decks for every new build, so you know what to expect before you pick up the phone.

Step 1: Initial Consultation

Every project starts with a free on-site consultation, typically 45 minutes. We come to your home, walk the space with you, and talk through what you’re envisioning (size, materials, railing style, any special features like built-in lighting, a pergola, or an outdoor kitchen area).

We’re also looking at the site itself during this visit: grade, existing landscaping, how the deck will attach to the house, access for equipment and materials, and anything else that affects how the project gets designed and built. A deck that looks simple on paper sometimes has site conditions that require additional planning. We’d rather find those things at the consultation than mid-build.

After the consultation, we put together a written quote with clear, itemized pricing. No vague estimates. You’ll see what you’re paying for.

Step 2: Design and Drawings

Once you decide to move forward, we produce design drawings for your deck in-house. These aren’t rough sketches: they’re the detailed drawings that go to the municipality with your permit application, showing dimensions, framing layout, footing locations and sizes, ledger attachment detail, and railing specifications.

We’ll review your deck design with you first, so you have the opportunity to make adjustments while changes are still easy. This is also when we finalize material selections if you haven’t already.

Step 3: Material Selection

If you haven’t settled on materials by the end of the consultation, the design phase is when we nail that down. The main decisions are decking surface (composite or wood, and which product line), railing system, and any special features. We can walk you through samples and help you think through what suits your home, your yard, and your maintenance preferences.

Material lead times vary. Most standard composite products are readily available, but custom colors, specialty railing systems, or pergola kits may have longer lead times that affect the project schedule. We factor this in when we give you your build timeline.

Step 4: HOA Approval (If Applicable)

If your neighborhood has a homeowners association, their approval typically needs to come before you can apply for a municipal building permit. HOA review processes vary considerably. Some associations turn around approvals in a week or two; others meet only quarterly and require submissions well in advance of their meeting dates.

If you have an HOA, let us know at the consultation. We can provide the drawings and documentation their review board typically requires, but the submission and approval process runs through you as the homeowner. We’ve found it’s worth understanding your HOA’s timeline early, as it can be the longest single variable in the pre-construction phase.

Step 5: Permit Application

Ann Arbor Decks handles the building permit application for every project. You don’t need to visit municipal offices or navigate the application yourself. We take care of it.

If you need Ann Arbor historical permissions, that is something you would need to obtain first. We can assist you in any way possible.

Washtenaw County encompasses many Townships and municipalities, and permitting timelines vary more than most homeowners expect. The City of Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti, and the surrounding townships each have their own building departments with their own review processes and workloads. Some turn permits around in a week or two; others can take considerably longer, particularly during the busy spring and summer building season.

A few things that affect permitting in this area:

• Zoning setbacks vary by municipality. How close your deck can be to a property line, easement, or structure depends on local zoning rules. Where possible, we obtain zoning approval before submitting your permit, so there are no setback surprises after the permit is filed.
• Deck drawings must meet Michigan Residential Code requirements. Our in-house drawings are prepared with code compliance in mind, which helps avoid revision requests that delay permit issuance.
• Permit fees vary by municipality and project scope. These are passed through to you at cost, plus our administrative fees. The permit costs will be clearly broken out for you on your contract.

Step 6: Site Preparation

Once the permit is in hand, we can more exactly schedule your project start date. If there’s an existing deck or structure being removed, demolition and debris hauling happens first. We handle all of that, including proper disposal of any pressure-treated lumber, which Michigan requires be taken to an authorized facility rather than placed in regular trash.

We also arrange to have Miss Dig mark utility lines before any digging begins. In Michigan, this means we call MISS DIG (dial 811) to have underground utilities located and flagged. This is a legal requirement before any excavation and a step we take seriously. Hitting an unmarked utility line is dangerous and costly. When flags show up in your lawn, you’ll need to leave them be until we remove them for you.

Step 7: Footings and Framing

This is the structural core of your deck, and it’s where the quality of a build is really established, even though most of it ends up hidden once the decking goes down.

In Michigan, deck footings must extend below the frost line, which is 42 inches. This prevents the freeze-thaw cycle from heaving posts out of the ground over time (a common cause of deck instability on improperly built structures). We pour concrete footings to the required depth and allow appropriate cure time before framing begins. The inspector will come out to approve the size, position and depth of the holes (the ‘footings inspection’).

Framing involves setting posts, installing beams and joists, and attaching the ledger board to the house. If your deck is ledgered (not all decks are attached), this ledger connection is one of the most structurally critical details in any attached deck, and we take care with both the attachment method and the flashing that protects your home’s rim joist from water intrusion. A ledger that allows water behind it is a slow-motion problem that doesn’t show up until significant damage has already occurred.

Depending on your municipality, a framing inspection may be required before decking can be installed. Where required, we schedule and coordinate this inspection.

Step 8: Decking and Railing Installation

With framing complete and inspection passed, decking boards go down. Hidden fastener systems (which leave a clean surface with no visible screw heads) are standard on most of our composite installations. Stair construction, if your deck includes stairs, happens during this phase as well.

Railing installation follows. Whether you’ve chosen cable, glass, aluminum balusters, or a composite system, this is when the deck starts to look finished. We pay attention to detail at this stage (consistent spacing, plumb posts, secure connections) because the railing is both a safety system and one of the most visible design elements of the finished deck.

Step 9: Final Inspection

A final building inspection takes place before the permit is closed out. An inspector from the local building department visits the site and reviews the completed deck against the approved permit drawings and applicable code requirements, like stair riser heights, stair widths, and stair handrail requirements. We schedule and coordinate this inspection for you.

Once final inspection is passed, the permit is closed and the deck is officially yours to enjoy.

The Process at a Glance

Step	Who Handles It	Notes
1. Initial consultation	Ann Arbor Decks	Free, on-site, 30–45 minutes
2. Design and drawings	Ann Arbor Decks	Reviewed with homeowner before submission
3. Material selection	Homeowner (with our guidance)	Affects lead times and project schedule
4. HOA approval	Homeowner (we provide documentation)	Required before permit in many neighborhoods; timelines vary
5. Permit application	Ann Arbor Decks	Timelines vary by municipality
6. Site preparation	Ann Arbor Decks	Includes demolition, MISS DIG, utility marking
7. Footings and framing	Ann Arbor Decks	42″ frost-depth footings required in Michigan
8. Decking and railing	Ann Arbor Decks	Hidden fasteners standard on composite installations
9. Final inspection	Ann Arbor Decks (schedules and coordinates)	Required by most Washtenaw County municipalities

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a permit to build a deck in Washtenaw County? In virtually all cases, yes. Any attached deck (and most freestanding decks above a certain size) requires a building permit in Washtenaw County municipalities. Building without a permit creates problems when you sell your home and can result in costly remediation if the unpermitted structure is discovered. Ann Arbor Decks handles the permit application for every project we build.

How long does the whole process take from first call to finished deck? It varies by project, but the permitting phase is usually the longest variable. Once a permit is in hand, the active build time for your specific deck is something we are happy to provide. We also coordinate with you on your expected project start date, staying in good communication as the project approaches.

What if my HOA rejects the design? We work with you to adjust the design to meet HOA requirements and resubmit. Most HOA rejections involve aesthetic concerns (materials, colors, or height) that can be addressed without fundamentally changing the project. The important thing is to start the HOA process early so a revision doesn’t significantly delay the overall timeline.

What is MISS DIG and why does it matter? MISS DIG is Michigan’s underground utility notification service. Before any digging begins, Michigan law requires contractors to contact MISS DIG (by dialing 811) so that underground utilities (gas, electric, water, communications lines) can be located and marked. We handle this as a standard part of every project requiring digging, before excavation starts. MISS DIG won’t cover sprinkler lines, so we do ask that you have your landscaper move those before we start work, if possible.

Why do footings need to go 42 inches deep? Michigan’s frost line (the depth at which the ground freezes in winter) is 42 inches. Footings that don’t extend below the frost line are subject to frost heave, where freezing and thawing soil pushes the footing (and the post above it) up and out of position over time. This leads to decks that become unlevel, unstable, or structurally compromised. Frost-depth footings are required by code and are simply the right way to build in Michigan.

Can I start using my deck before the final inspection? Technically the deck isn’t permitted for occupancy until the final inspection is passed and the permit is closed. We schedule final inspections promptly at project completion. There’s no reason for this step to take long once the work is done.

Ready to Get Started?

If you’re thinking about a new deck, the best first step is a conversation. Our free on-site consultations are no-pressure, take about 30 to 45 minutes, and give you a clear picture of what your project would involve. We then follow up with a written quote and a realistic timeline.

Book your free estimate today. We serve Ann Arbor, Saline, Dexter, Chelsea, Pittsfield Township, Ypsilanti Township, and the surrounding Washtenaw County area.

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